Calling your cat’s name loudly can startle them, causing them to run away or hide.
When calling your cat during a search, use a calm, quiet voice―just as you would at home. Cats have very sensitive hearing, so if they are nearby, they can hear you perfectly well even if you speak softly. Loud calls can make them feel threatened or unsafe. Keeping your voice gentle and familiar helps reassure them and increases the chances that they will feel safe enough to come out of hiding.

When your cat goes missing, you may feel inclined to leave cat food around your home to keep them from going hungry or wandering farther away.
While this can be helpful in areas without other cats, it becomes problematic if stray or outdoor cats are nearby. Leaving food alone won’t help you confirm which cat is eating it. In fact, food alone may attract unfamiliar cats, making it difficult to tell whether your own cat is the one visiting.
Similarly, scattering your cat’s litter may lead to scent-marking by other cats, which could discourage your cat from returning.
If you decide to leave food out, always place a trail camera nearby so you can monitor which cats are visiting.

When a cat goes missing, they may survive for a time by catching lizards or insects. However, this is rarely enough to satisfy their hunger. If they find a feeding spot where food is reliably available, they will usually stop roaming in search of insects and settle near that location.

In areas where stray or community cats are present, there is a high likelihood that a feeding spot exists. Stray cats tend to move on if there is no consistent food source, so the fact that they remain in a particular area often indicates that food is being provided nearby.

Identifying and monitoring these feeding spots is a critical part of finding your lost cat. As you search, make note of every feeding spot you discover and mark it on a detailed map. Then, starting with the ones closest to your home, systematically check each location using a trail camera.

Even if someone feeding the cats says, "Your cat hasn’t been here,” keep in mind that they may simply not have noticed. In such cases, kindly ask for permission to place a trail camera for at least two days to confirm whether your cat has visited the spot.

Every lost cat requires a different search approach.

For example, an indoor cat afraid of strangers will usually prioritize fear over hunger immediately after escaping. They tend to stay hidden in a very close, quiet spot near home and barely move, making them nearly impossible to find if you search only from what you can see on the street.

In contrast, if a cat with free outdoor access goes missing, they may have wandered outside their usual territory and become disoriented, unable to find their way back. In such cases, it can be very difficult to locate your cat just by walking around the neighborhood.

A lost cat’s behavior changes over time and is shaped by a combination of their environment and temperament. Rather than continuing to walk around for days, we recommend using our free chatbot, "500 Ways to Find Your Lost Pet," to discover the most effective way to find your lost cat―matched to your specific situation.

Even a cat that is friendly and affectionate at home can become extremely cautious when exposed to unfamiliar outdoor surroundings.
If you approach too quickly or try to grab them out of excitement, a lost cat―already on high alert―may panic and run. In most cases, it is nearly impossible to catch a frightened cat with your bare hands once they begin to flee.

If you repeatedly chase them, their fear will only grow. Over time, they may begin to run away at the mere sight of you. They may even relocate, making it much harder to find them again.

It’s natural to want to catch your cat as soon as you find them, but please take a moment to stay calm. First, crouch down low and call their name in a quiet, steady voice. Carefully observe their behavior to assess whether capturing them by hand is possible.
If they seem too tense or afraid, using a trap cage is often a more reliable way to bring them home safely.

If you’ve distributed lost cat flyers but haven’t received any sightings. Below are common reasons why sightings may not come in―and what you can do about each one.

1. Flyer Coverage Has Gaps
Your cat may be hiding in the yard of a house where no flyer was delivered. Even if the resident sees your cat, they won’t realize the cat is missing and won’t think to contact you.
■ What You Can Do
Review your flyer distribution map and repost flyers to make sure no homes have been missed.



2. Your Cat Is Hiding Too Well to Be Spotted
The lack of sightings may not mean your cat has traveled far―it could be that they are hiding nearby and simply not coming out during times when people are around.
■ What You Can Do
Ask nearby residents for permission to search their property thoroughly using a flashlight―especially under decks, sheds, and crawl spaces.

3. Your Cat Has Moved Beyond the Flyer Area
A lost cat may gradually wander farther from home as they are chased by other cats or roam in search of food and a safe place to sleep.
■ What You Can Do
Expand your flyer distribution area gradually:
Within 7 days: up to a 300-meter radius
Within 1 month: up to a 500-meter radius
After 1 month: up to a 1-kilometer radius
Cats don’t continue to roam endlessly. Within about a month, most will find a feeding spot and settle in one area.

4. People Don’t Recognize Your Cat from the Flyer
Your cat may look similar to local outdoor cats, or the flyer design may not clearly show their features.
■ What You Can Do
Redesign your flyer to highlight your cat’s most identifiable traits, such as their coat pattern, tail shape, or ear tip.



5. Someone Has Taken Your Cat In
If your cat had no collar or lost it while wandering after going missing, someone may have assumed they were a stray and decided to keep them indoors. Friendly cats are especially at risk of being adopted by someone else.
■ What You Can Do
Post flyers thoroughly so the person who has your cat knows someone is looking for them.
Visit all veterinary clinics within a 5-kilometer radius. Many people who take in a cat will bring them to the vet for a checkup. Ask clinics to post your flyer in their waiting room.

6. Your Cat Was Transported by Vehicle
In rare cases, cats have been unintentionally carried away by vehicle―such as in the back of a truck―or picked up by someone and taken elsewhere for care.
■ What You Can Do
Use social media to share your flyer beyond your local flyer coverage area. Online posts can help reach people farther away.

7. Your Cat Was Taken to a Shelter or Clinic
Your cat may have been found in poor condition and taken to a veterinary hospital or local animal control facility.
■ What You Can Do
Contact nearby shelters and clinics regularly. Check for recent intakes and leave flyers with your contact information.

While searching for your lost cat, it’s not uncommon to encounter tension or even conflict with neighbors.
To you, your cat is a beloved family member―but not everyone will understand this. Some people may think, "It’s just a cat,” and if they feel bothered by your actions, it could lead to complaints or resistance, making it harder to continue your search in the area.

Some actions may seem harmless in the moment but can upset neighbors. Please be mindful not to:
- Search in groups while talking loudly
- Wander around homes or shine flashlights into yards late at night
- Enter someone’s property or set up trail cameras or trap cages without permission
- Distribute flyers late at night
- Post flyers on utility poles, trees, guardrails, or walls without permission

When searching in a residential area, always carry your Lost Cat Flyer to avoid being mistaken for a suspicious person. It helps explain what you’re doing and may encourage someone who has seen your cat to contact you.

Be thoughtful and respectful as you search. You may find that more people care about lost cats than you expect, and if you build trust with those around you, many will be willing to support your efforts.

It’s understandable that many cat owners feel overwhelmed when their cat goes missing, and that they immediately start looking for a Lost Pet Recovery Specialist.
However, before hiring a Lost Pet Recovery Specialist, we recommend using the free chatbot "500 Ways to Find Your Lost Pet," to identify the most effective strategies for your cat’s current situation. Depending on the method used, your own search efforts may actually be more effective than those of a hired specialist―especially if their approach isn’t well-matched to your case.

If you decide to hire a specialist after reviewing search methods, we encourage you to check the following points in advance:

1. Fee Structure
Lost Pet Recovery Specialists may offer different types of fee structures:
- A fixed fee, regardless of the time spent or results delivered
- A time-based fee, charged according to working hours
- A success-based fee, only charged if a certain result is achieved
If the contract is success-based, be sure to check what is defined as "success.” In some cases, even receiving a single sighting may trigger the success fee.

2. Cancellation Policy
Confirm when cancellation fees begin to apply and whether mid-contract cancellation is allowed.
Some contracts impose a cancellation penalty if the agreement is terminated after work begins.

It is advisable to avoid specialists who do not clearly state their fee structure and cancellation policy on their website.

3. Search Schedule and Tasks
Contact the specialist directly and ask:
- When they would be able to start the search
- What specific actions they plan to take
Describe your cat’s situation in detail and ask what steps you should take while waiting for the search to begin.

4. Information Handoff
If your cat is not found during the contracted period, you will need to continue the search on your own.
Ask if they will provide a map or record showing:
- Where Lost Cat Flyers were posted
- Feeding spots
- Locations of trail cameras and trap cages
This ensures you can take over the search without losing progress.

5. Estimate
Once you are comfortable with the above, request a written estimate.
In most cases, additional charges such as travel and out-of-pocket expenses will apply.
If the specialist is located far from your area, transportation costs may be significant.

Cats are not typically taken in by the police or animal control simply for being seen outdoors.
However, if a cat is found injured or severely weakened, they may be picked up and placed in protective custody. For this reason, it’s important to file a report early―just in case.

Even if your cat is taken in by the police or animal control, you may not be contacted unless your contact information is clearly written on their collar.
That’s why it’s essential not only to file a report, but also to regularly check intake records and shelter listings to stay informed after submitting your report.

Note: Procedures and agency responsibilities may vary by country or region. Please check with your local authorities for accurate guidance.

1. Police Departments
In most areas, police departments do not have the facilities to house or care for animals. If someone brings a lost cat to the police station, they will often refer them to the local animal control center.
In some regions, the police may keep records of cats that have been brought in. It’s worth checking whether your cat may be listed.

2. Animal Control Centers
If a cat is taken to an animal control center, they will first receive any necessary medical care. Staff will scan for a microchip, and if owner information is registered, they will attempt to make contact.
If the cat is unidentifiable, they will be held and posted as lost for a designated holding period. Be sure to check the center’s lost-and-found listings regularly.
If no one claims the cat during the holding period, the cat may be put up for adoption or transferred to a rescue organization.

3. Public Works Departments (Road Cleaning Services)
Sadly, if a cat is found deceased―such as from being hit by a car―it may be collected and disposed of by the city’s public works department responsible for road maintenance.
In such cases, remains are often cremated within two to three days, and no official record may be kept. It’s important to contact the department promptly if there is a possibility your cat was involved.

4. Veterinary Clinics
Although not government-run, veterinary clinics often receive lost cats that have been rescued due to injury or illness.
There have been cases where a passerby found a cat in poor condition and brought them to a clinic near their home. For this reason, it is strongly recommended that you take your Lost Cat Flyer to all clinics within a 5-kilometer radius and ask if they would be willing to display it in their waiting area.

When a cat goes missing, their behavior and whereabouts can vary depending on their personality, living environment, and the circumstances of their escape. Below are some common outcomes:

1. They Come Home on Their Own
Cats not used to being outside may hide near home and return quietly during calm hours, such as late at night or early in the morning.
Cats used to being outside may return after wandering for a while.
Friendly cats may come back after being fed somewhere.
However, if they cannot re-enter the home or are blocked by other cats, they may leave again.

2. They Stay Hidden Nearby
An indoor cat afraid of strangers may become disoriented by the unfamiliar surroundings and instinctively seek a dark, narrow, and tucked-away hiding place. These cats usually don’t go far and may hide just a few meters from home, such as under a neighbor’s shed or in a crawl space accessible from outside.
Injured or weakened cats may also remain hidden in a secure spot while waiting to recover their strength.

3. They Wander Too Far to Find Their Way Back
Even cats familiar with the outdoors can become lost if they chase or are chased by another cat and cross out of their usual territory.
Because cats’ homing abilities vary, they may get lost simply by entering unfamiliar areas or crossing wide roads or bridges.
In some cases, they may try to find their way home by walking aimlessly, which causes them to drift farther away.

4. They Try to Return to Their Previous Home or Outdoor Sleeping Spot
Cats that escape shortly after a move or being rehomed may try to return to the place they used to live―or to a familiar outdoor spot where they used to sleep.
Some manage to find their way back, while others head in the wrong direction and become lost in unfamiliar areas.

5. They Settle at a Feeding Spot
When cats go missing, they may hunt insects or lizards to survive, but this rarely satisfies their hunger.
If they find a feeding spot where food is consistently available, they may begin visiting regularly and eventually try to settle there.
If food is left out unattended for long periods, the person feeding the cats may not be around to notice that your cat is coming to eat.

6. They Are Taken to a Veterinary Clinic or Animal Control Center
Cats that are injured or weak may be rescued by kind individuals and brought to a veterinary clinic or a local animal control facility.

7. They Are Sheltered in Someone’s Home
Sometimes, a kind neighbor may take in a cat that appears sick or injured and care for them at home without filing a report.

8. They Are Adopted by Someone
If the cat was not wearing a collar―or if it came off―they may be mistaken for a stray and adopted by someone.
Once kept indoors, they are no longer visible outside.

9. They Are Managed as a Community Cat
Cats believed to be unowned may be trapped, neutered, and returned (TNR), and then cared for as community cats by volunteers.

10. They Are Transported Far Away by Car
Rarely, a cat may climb into a vehicle or truck bed and end up far from home.
In other cases, a weakened cat may be rescued and transported to a veterinary clinic in another area.

11. They Become a Stray Cat
If no one rescues them, they may begin living as a stray cat.

12. They Pass Away
Sadly, some cats may die due to accidents, illness, or malnutrition.

Some cats do manage to find their way home on their own when they become hungry―if they still know which direction home is. However, whether they return depends heavily on their living environment and the circumstances under which they went missing.

- There are several reasons why they may not come back:
- They Wander Too Far to Find Their Way Back
- They Settle at a Feeding Spot
- They Are Adopted by Someone
- They Are Taken to an Animal Control Center
- They Are Hit by a Car

If your cat has returned on their own or been found easily after going missing in the past, it’s natural to hope the same will happen again.
But there are no guarantees. If your cat is in a situation where they can’t return on their own, the longer you wait, the harder it becomes to find them.
Rather than relying solely on the hope that they will come back, act quickly and take the necessary steps to search for them now.

Unlike dogs, which can travel several kilometers in a single day, cats are not physically built to keep walking long distances. When an indoor cat goes missing, even if they travel far, it’s rare for them to go beyond 300 meters in a single day. Rather than heading in a straight line toward a destination, they tend to wander aimlessly.
Cats may continue moving for various reasons, such as:
- Following another cat
- Roaming due to being in heat (if not spayed or neutered)
- Being chased by other cats or people
- Searching for a feeding spot with consistent food
- Looking for a safe and hidden place to sleep
- Trying to return home or to a familiar location

However, cats do not continue wandering indefinitely. In many cases, within about a month, they find a feeding spot where food is reliably available and begin to settle in that area.

This is a common question, but because cats are living beings, there is no single answer. How long they can survive depends on factors such as their physical condition, the season, and whether food is available in the area.

When an indoor cat afraid of strangers ends up outside, they often become frightened by the unfamiliar environment and the presence of people. Instinctively, they seek a dark, narrow, and hidden space to crawl into. Once they find a place that feels safe, they may remain hidden there for days, or even weeks, without coming out. While hiding, they typically don’t eat, but because they stay very still, their calorie consumption remains low, and they can usually survive for several days without experiencing severe weakness. There have even been cases where a cat hiding in an attic without food was safely found and rescued after two weeks.

Even indoor cats, once they become hungry enough, may begin to hunt in order to survive. They may prey on small mammals such as mice, birds like pigeons or sparrows, reptiles and amphibians like lizards and frogs, or even insects.

In areas with many stray or community cats, there are often feeding spots where people leave food regularly. A lost cat may try to settle at one of these locations.

Also, if a cat becomes weak or sick, there is a good chance someone may find and take them in, often without realizing they are lost.

As long as they don’t get hit by a car, even an indoor cat with no outdoor experience has a good chance of surviving for a long time outside. So please don’t give up hope, and continue your search efforts.

A cat’s behavior while living at home is influenced by their relationship with their owner and the indoor environment.
However, when a cat goes missing and is forced to find food and protect themselves, breed-specific behavioral tendencies often begin to emerge.

Based on our search experience, we would like to share some observed behavioral differences among breeds when they go missing.
Of course, please keep in mind that individual behavior can vary depending on the cat’s living environment and personality.

American Shorthair
When an American Shorthair goes missing, they tend to roam within a short to moderate range rather than traveling far. This may be because they are skilled hunters capable of catching mice, lizards, frogs, and other prey, which reduces the need to travel long distances in search of feeding spots.
However, they may sometimes approach other cats on their own, playfully provoke them, or end up moving around while chasing or being chased.

Scottish Fold
Scottish Folds often slip outside through an open door or window and tend to stay near the house without wandering far.
However, if they encounter another cat and are chased off, or if they wander aimlessly and drift away from home, they may lose their sense of direction and end up traveling farther in search of a feeding spot.
If they are not particularly wary, they may be taken in and cared for by someone.

Munchkin
When a Munchkin goes missing, they tend to hide in a place that feels safe and observe their surroundings for a while. However, due to their curious nature, they often begin moving sooner than other breeds.
In past cases, they have been found at various distances from home―some nearby, others farther away―indicating that their behavior can vary greatly from one individual to another.

Russian Blue
When a Russian Blue goes missing, their cautious nature leads them to hide in a safe place and observe their surroundings for a while.
Once they feel the area is secure, they begin to move, but they tend to do so carefully, choosing times and places where they are less likely to be seen.

Persian
When a Persian goes missing, they tend to find a spot where they feel comfortable and remain there, staying within a limited area.

Maine Coon
When a Maine Coon goes missing, their curious nature often leads them to explore a wide range of things in the outside world, and they may sometimes travel long distances.
Their water-resistant coat allows them to remain active even in rainy weather.
Unlike many other cats, they are relatively responsive to being called, so if they are still near home, they may return on their own when their owner calls for them.

Norwegian Forest Cat
When a Norwegian Forest Cat goes missing, their bold and curious nature often leads them to start moving relatively quickly once they become familiar with their surroundings.
They have a tendency to seek high places, so they may travel by climbing onto roofs, trees, or walking along fences.
Their double coat is water-resistant and provides excellent insulation, allowing them to handle cold weather well. As a result, they may still appear at feeding spots even on rainy days.
Unlike many other cats, they are relatively responsive to being called, so if they are still near home, they may return on their own when their owner calls for them.

Siamese
When a Siamese goes missing, their cautious nature often leads them to hide in a safe place and observe their surroundings for a while. However, their curiosity tends to prompt them to start moving sooner than expected.
Even once they begin to move, they typically remain within a limited area and act carefully rather than traveling far.
Because they tend to prefer high places, they may move around by climbing onto roofs, trees, or walking along fences.
If they go missing in winter, they are often found warming themselves in sunny spots or on outdoor units of air conditioners.

Bengal
When a Bengal goes missing, they tend to start moving right away rather than staying hidden.
They have exceptional physical abilities―strength, speed, and jumping power―and may chase after other cats.
Because of their stamina, they can cover a wide area, which can make the search range significantly larger.
Bengals are not typically shy around people and may appear openly in public. In some cases, they approach people when hungry and are taken in and cared for.

Abyssinian
When an Abyssinian goes missing, they tend to hide in a safe place and observe their surroundings for a while, but they usually start moving once they become familiar with the area.
Although they are curious, they also have a cautious side, and are more likely to be active during quiet hours near home.
Once they begin to move, their strong physical abilities allow them to appear in unexpected places, and they are sometimes seen searching for food even in the rain, showing little concern about getting wet.

Somali
When a Somali goes missing, their keen awareness and cautious nature often lead them to thoroughly assess their surroundings before taking action.
They tend to hide in quiet places, avoiding people and traffic, and are more likely to move around during the late-night hours when everything is silent.
They may still search for food even in rainy weather.
Somalis are often found staying near home rather than roaming over a wide area.

Among stray cats and outdoor-access cats, males generally tend to cover a wider area than females. However, this applies to cats that are already accustomed to being outside. When a cat unfamiliar with the outdoors goes missing, being male does not necessarily mean they have traveled farther.

When an indoor cat afraid of strangers ends up outside, regardless of sex, they often become frightened by the unfamiliar environment and the presence of people. Instinctively, they seek a dark, narrow, and hidden place to crawl into. Once they find a spot that feels safe, they may remain there for days, or even weeks, without coming out.

The distance a lost cat travels depends more on their living environment, personality, the presence of outdoor cats, the availability of feeding spots nearby, and how many days have passed since they went missing―rather than their sex.

A cat’s behavior when they go missing varies depending on their age.
Based on our search experience, we would like to share some behavioral differences we have observed in cats of different ages when they go missing.
Of course, please keep in mind that a cat’s behavior is also influenced by their living environment and personality, so individual differences are always to be expected.

1. Kitten Stage (0–6 Months)
During this period, kittens typically stay close to their mother and live within a small area centered around a secure feeding spot, minimizing stress and movement.
If a small kitten goes missing, they may be attacked by adult cats that see the area as their territory. As a result, they might remain hidden in a safe spot without moving for a while, or they may be forced to relocate after being chased.
Due to their youthful curiosity, they often exhibit a pattern of cautiously emerging from hiding to investigate sounds or movement, then retreating again.

2. Adult Stage (7 Months – 10 Years)
At this age, cats begin to develop a strong sense of territory and have the physical confidence to move actively, even when lost.
They may travel while chasing something that catches their interest or while engaging in territorial disputes with outdoor cats. If they are in heat, they may roam even farther.
Depending on their personality, cats with prior outdoor experience tend to find feeding spots more quickly and are more likely to settle there.

3. Senior Stage (11 – 14 Years)
In their senior years, cats tend to develop a more calm and settled pattern of behavior.
Even if they go missing, they are less likely to be driven by curiosity or to engage in territorial or mating-related conflicts.
Instead, their movements are usually focused on finding a feeding spot where they can eat regularly and a safe place to sleep comfortably.

4. Advanced Senior Stage (15 Years and Older)
In the advanced senior stage, cats often experience weakened legs and joints, making it difficult for them to climb to high places or travel long distances. As a result, they are more likely to stay hidden near home.
For cats undergoing medication, especially those whose symptoms return quickly once the medicine wears off, it is unlikely that they will travel far. Instead, they tend to seek out a safe and secure hiding spot very close to where they went missing.

Understanding these age-related tendencies can help guide your search strategy and improve your chances of finding your lost cat.

If a cat on medication starts to feel unwell as the effects of the medicine wear off, they will often crawl into a dark, narrow, and secluded place where people or other animals are unlikely to come, in order to wait and recover.
For cats whose symptoms return quickly after the medication wears off, they are usually unable to travel far and instead try to find a safe hiding spot very close to where they went missing.

When a cat undergoing medical treatment goes missing, many owners tend to assume the worst―thinking the cat may have already passed away because their condition deteriorates quickly without medication.
However, there have been many cases where a cat was found several days later with no serious health issues. It’s important to stay calm and continue your search step by step.

There have also been cases where a sick or injured cat was rescued by someone driving by and taken to a nearby veterinary clinic.
For this reason, be sure to bring your Lost Cat Flyers to all veterinary clinics within at least a 5-kilometer radius, and if possible, ask if they can post the flyer in their waiting area.

Many modern cat collars are designed with safety buckles that release if the collar gets caught on something like a tree branch, preventing the risk of strangulation.
Whether it’s a pin buckle, a stretchable scrunchie-type, or a string-type collar, cats may manage to remove them on their own.
The more days that pass after a cat goes missing, the more likely it is that their collar has come off. In our search experience, it’s common to find just the collar along the way.

On your Lost Cat Flyer, under the collar description, be sure to include a small note saying: "The collar may have come off.”
Without this note, there’s a risk that even if someone sees your cat without a collar, they won’t contact you, assuming it’s a different cat.

Many cats go missing while being walked on a leash.
A loud noise or a passing person or dog―any small trigger can cause a cat to panic and struggle violently. Once this happens, it becomes impossible to hold them back, and they may run off. When a cat panics, they cannot be controlled, even with a leash.

1. What Happens If Cats Go Missing with a Leash On?
- If the leash is attached to a collar with a safety buckle designed to come off when pulled (to prevent strangulation), the leash may get caught on a branch or other object and come off together with the collar.
- If the leash is attached to a harness instead of a collar, it is less likely to come off. However, since cats are very flexible, they may still manage to slip out of the harness.
- If the leash remains attached, it may get snagged on a branch or stuck in a narrow space. In their attempt to free themselves, the cat may become entangled and unable to move.

There have been cases where a detached leash or a cat immobilized by a tangled leash was found near the spot where they went missing.
Use a flashlight to carefully check every possible hiding spot near the area, making sure to leave no gaps and search one spot at a time.

If you find your cat with the leash still on, do not try to lead them home with the leash, as they may panic again and run off. Instead, place them in a Cat Carrier and carry them home safely.

2. Lost Cat Flyer
On your Lost Cat Flyer, under the leash description, be sure to include a small note saying: "The leash may have come off.”
Without this note, there’s a risk that even if someone sees your cat without a leash, they won’t contact you, assuming it’s a different cat.

3. Reporting to Authorities
A cat with a leash still attached is immediately recognizable as a lost pet, and the leash makes it easier for someone to catch them by stepping on it.
In some cases, a kind person may have already rescued your cat and brought them to a local police station or animal control center. Please contact these facilities as soon as possible.

Cats generally don’t seek out conflict with each other, so when they encounter one another, they usually keep their distance and avoid confrontation. However, if there are outdoor cats in the area, there are several things you should consider:

- Your cat may have been chased away by other cats and moved to a different location.
- Your cat may be drawn to a feeding spot.
- You may receive sightings of cats that look similar to yours.

Adjust your search strategy according to the following situations:

1. If there is a dominant stray cat nearby
Some neighborhoods have a strong or territorial stray cat that may drive other cats away. When asking around the neighborhood, be sure to ask if anyone has heard the sound of cats fighting recently. This may be a sign that your cat was chased away.

2. If there are stray or community cats in the area
In areas where stray or community cats are present, it’s highly likely that there’s a feeding spot nearby. Stray cats don’t usually stay in one place unless they have access to a steady food source, so their presence often indicates someone is providing food in the area.
Even if the person feeding the cats says, "Your cat hasn’t come here,” keep in mind that they may not have noticed. Politely ask for permission to set up a trail camera for at least two days to check whether your cat has visited the spot.

3. If There’s a Similar-Looking Cat Nearby
If there is a cat in your neighborhood with a coat color or pattern similar to your own cat’s, you may start receiving sightings of that other cat.
To avoid this, redesign your Lost Cat Flyer to highlight your cat’s most identifiable traits, such as their coat pattern, tail shape, or ear tip, so people can clearly tell the difference.

Cats dislike getting wet, so they tend to stay hidden in places where they can stay dry during the rain. As a result, walking around in the rain to search is unlikely to lead to a sighting.
They also tend not to move while it’s raining, so rather than forcing yourself to search in the rain, it’s better to look for them after the rain has stopped.

Cats manage to cope with heat and cold by finding appropriate shelter―shady and well-ventilated spots on hot days, and sunny, wind-protected areas when it’s cold.

In summer, they tend to rest in breezy, shaded places such as under cars, on shaded walls, in attics, or under porches during the day, and become active from evening through early morning.

In winter, they are more likely to be active during the warmer parts of the day and sleep at night in warm, sheltered spots such as storage sheds, material piles, or crawl spaces that block the wind.

However, prolonged exposure to heat or cold can weaken a cat, so please continue your search efforts with the aim of bringing them to safety as soon as possible.

It’s natural to worry if there have been rumors of abuse in your area. However, based on our experience, most cats are found if the search is started promptly and correctly―so there’s usually no need to assume someone has taken your cat. In fact, catching a cat outdoors is not an easy task.

It’s not that someone deliberately took your cat, but as more days pass after they go missing, there are cases where someone who’s been feeding them eventually brings them indoors and starts keeping them as a pet.

It’s understandable to worry that someone may have taken your cat if you can’t find them just by searching from the street. However, before jumping to that conclusion, there are essential steps you should take based on your current situation―such as requesting permission to search on neighbors’ properties and checking visually, or distributing Lost Cat Flyers. Please focus on completing these steps first.

Cats often hide within residential properties or move around in areas that are difficult to see from the street, such as backyards or fences between houses. As a result, it’s more likely that a resident will spot your cat on their property than you will by searching from the street.

If your cat has started to roam and the search area has widened, simply walking around becomes a matter of chance. That’s why it’s important to not only search visually from the street but also distribute Lost Cat Flyers to every household in the area. Even if you don’t see your cat yourself, the flyers create a network of residents who can contact you if they spot them.
By distributing flyers thoroughly, without leaving gaps, you create a local net of awareness―making it more likely that your cat will be seen wherever they go.

If someone has taken in your cat because they were sick or injured, the flyer can help them realize the cat is being searched for. Likewise, if your cat has started visiting a feeding spot, someone may recognize them from the flyer and reach out.

Many cats are successfully found and brought home thanks to sightings reported through Lost Cat Flyers.

When a cat goes missing, many owners tend to fill their Lost Cat Flyer with lots of photos and text in an effort to convey as much information as possible. However, this can actually be counterproductive. If the flyer is too crowded with details, people may not remember anything clearly. As a result, they might not contact you even if they see your cat, or they may report sightings of cats that only share a similar color.

For example, if your brown tabby cat has a kinked tail and an ear tip on the right ear, you should prominently feature a simple description like "Brown Tabby Cat with Kinked Tail,” along with a photo that clearly shows the tail and the ear tip. By omitting other less essential details, you help people remember the key traits: "a brown tabby cat with a kinked tail.”

Also, to increase the reliability of sightings, be sure to include a note on the flyer that says, "If possible, please take a photo.”

1. During the day, distribute Lost Cat Flyers to every household near the place where your cat went missing, starting close by and making sure not to skip a single home. Speaking with residents can take time, so focus on placing the flyers directly into mailboxes. As you post the flyers, also search visually around front yards and other visible areas.

2. Instead of distributing flyers at random, go block by block―covering one block bordered by roads at a time. Mark each household you’ve posted to on a map, and also note locations where a cat might be hiding, such as vacant homes, along with any known feeding spots or outdoor cat activity. This will help you build a detailed search map for your lost cat.



3. Until you receive confirmed sightings, postpone distributing flyers across wide roads or rivers, and instead expand the flyer coverage area evenly in all directions from the point where your cat went missing.

Sightings calls often come unexpectedly. To avoid panicking when you receive one, it’s helpful to prepare in advance by writing down the following items in a notebook or memo app you can easily access at any time.

When you receive a sightings call, start by sincerely thanking the caller, then ask for details about the sighting.

1. Ask for details about the sighting―when they saw the cat (and since when they’ve been seeing them), the exact location, what the cat was doing at the time, and which direction they were heading. When asking about the cat’s appearance, do not lead the conversation with questions like "Did they have an ear tip on the right side?” Instead, let the caller describe what they remember in their own words.

2. If they have a photo, ask them to send it via SMS or another messaging method. Also, let them know some key features of your cat, and kindly ask them to take a photo if they see the cat again, making sure to capture the features you described.

3. Ask for the caller’s name, and if possible, request permission to contact them again. Also, ask if they would be willing to take a photo if they see the cat again.

4. Save the caller’s information in your phone contacts with a clear label such as "Sighting Info – Mr. Yamada.” This way, if they call again, you’ll immediately recognize who it is.

If you’ve distributed lost cat flyers but haven’t received any sightings. Below are common reasons why sightings may not come in―and what you can do about each one.

1. Flyer Coverage Has Gaps
Your cat may be hiding in the yard of a house where no flyer was delivered. Even if the resident sees your cat, they won’t realize the cat is missing and won’t think to contact you.
■ What You Can Do
Review your flyer distribution map and repost flyers to make sure no homes have been missed.



2. Your Cat Is Hiding Too Well to Be Spotted
The lack of sightings may not mean your cat has traveled far―it could be that they are hiding nearby and simply not coming out during times when people are around.
■ What You Can Do
Ask nearby residents for permission to search their property thoroughly using a flashlight―especially under decks, sheds, and crawl spaces.

3. Your Cat Has Moved Beyond the Flyer Area
A lost cat may gradually wander farther from home as they are chased by other cats or roam in search of food and a safe place to sleep.
■ What You Can Do
Expand your flyer distribution area gradually:
Within 7 days: up to a 300-meter radius
Within 1 month: up to a 500-meter radius
After 1 month: up to a 1-kilometer radius
Cats don’t continue to roam endlessly. Within about a month, most will find a feeding spot and settle in one area.

4. People Don’t Recognize Your Cat from the Flyer
Your cat may look similar to local outdoor cats, or the flyer design may not clearly show their features.
■ What You Can Do
Redesign your flyer to highlight your cat’s most identifiable traits, such as their coat pattern, tail shape, or ear tip.



5. Someone Has Taken Your Cat In
If your cat had no collar or lost it while wandering after going missing, someone may have assumed they were a stray and decided to keep them indoors. Friendly cats are especially at risk of being adopted by someone else.
■ What You Can Do
Post flyers thoroughly so the person who has your cat knows someone is looking for them.
Visit all veterinary clinics within a 5-kilometer radius. Many people who take in a cat will bring them to the vet for a checkup. Ask clinics to post your flyer in their waiting room.

6. Your Cat Was Transported by Vehicle
In rare cases, cats have been unintentionally carried away by vehicle―such as in the back of a truck―or picked up by someone and taken elsewhere for care.
■ What You Can Do
Use social media to share your flyer beyond your local flyer coverage area. Online posts can help reach people farther away.

7. Your Cat Was Taken to a Shelter or Clinic
Your cat may have been found in poor condition and taken to a veterinary hospital or local animal control facility.
■ What You Can Do
Contact nearby shelters and clinics regularly. Check for recent intakes and leave flyers with your contact information.

Sharing information on social media can be helpful for quickly letting many people know that your cat is missing. However, because posts can be seen by a wide and unspecified audience, there are also some downsides. In addition to genuine sightings, you may begin receiving personal stories about others’ lost cats or repeated unsolicited advice. Responding to these can take up valuable time and energy. In some cases, you may even receive unkind or critical comments. To avoid emotional fatigue, it’s often best to ask someone else to manage social media communications on your behalf.

Note: Lost cats are often hiding within a few hundred meters of home, so social media is generally less effective for cats than it is for lost dogs, which tend to travel longer distances. Social media may help in cases where your cat has been taken to a shelter or adopted by someone, but it rarely brings sightings from nearby residents.
Delivering Lost Cat Flyers door to door remains the most effective way to gather sightings of a missing cat. Don’t rely solely on social media―be sure to distribute Lost Cat Flyers as well.

If your cat used to be active at home during late-night or early-morning hours, you may have a better chance of spotting them at night than during the day.

Cats that are highly cautious and only come out of hiding when there are no people around are also more likely to be seen at night. However, please avoid entering people’s properties at night, as it may not be well received. Visual searches on private property should be conducted during the day.

Cats that are used to being outdoors and not particularly wary of people may roam around during the day, making daytime searches more effective in some cases.

In any case, do not limit your search to nighttime. Be sure to also search during the day to identify local feeding spots and talk with people who may be providing food in the area.

A flashlight, your cat’s favorite treats, a Cat Carrier, Lost Cat Flyers, and a map.

Even if you find your cat and are able to catch them with your bare hands, they may slip out of your arms and escape on the way home. Even if you're only 10 meters from your house, it’s extremely difficult to carry a frightened cat without losing hold of them. As soon as you’ve safely secured your cat, place them in a Cat Carrier. If you don’t have one, a mesh laundry bag or similar item can be used as a substitute.

While searching for your lost cat, it’s not uncommon to encounter tension or even conflict with neighbors.
To you, your cat is a beloved family member―but not everyone will understand this. Some people may think, "It’s just a cat,” and if they feel bothered by your actions, it could lead to complaints or resistance, making it harder to continue your search in the area.

Some actions may seem harmless in the moment but can upset neighbors. Please be mindful not to:
- Search in groups while talking loudly
- Wander around homes or shine flashlights into yards late at night
- Enter someone’s property or set up trail cameras or trap cages without permission
- Distribute flyers late at night
- Post flyers on utility poles, trees, guardrails, or walls without permission

When searching in a residential area, always carry your Lost Cat Flyer to avoid being mistaken for a suspicious person. It helps explain what you’re doing and may encourage someone who has seen your cat to contact you.

Be thoughtful and respectful as you search. You may find that more people care about lost cats than you expect, and if you build trust with those around you, many will be willing to support your efforts.

Even if you’re familiar with a neighbor, it can feel awkward to ask permission to enter their property to search for your cat. However, this step is critical to recovering your cat before they move away, so it’s worth gathering the courage to ask.

Never enter someone’s property without permission, and never shine a flashlight into someone’s yard at night. Doing so may upset the residents and could lead to conflict, potentially preventing you from continuing your search.

1. Explain the situation and politely ask if you may enter the property during the daytime. People are generally uncomfortable with others entering their property after dark. Since cats tend to hide in dark, narrow, and recessed spaces that require a flashlight for effective searching, there’s no need to conduct searches at night. Handing them your Lost Cat Flyer helps explain your situation and increases the chance they’ll contact you if they see your cat later.

2. Even if the resident kindly offers to "keep an eye out,” do not rely on this alone. Cats rarely hide in shallow areas that are easy to see. It’s essential that you visually check the property yourself.

3. Since you usually won’t be able to revisit someone’s property multiple times, conduct a thorough search while you’re there―inspect all possible hiding spots.

4. Be sure to visually check every single property without skipping any. If you leave even one property unchecked, that could be the very place your cat is hiding.

What You’ll Need: Your cat’s favorite treats, a Cat Carrier

1. When you find your lost cat, first crouch down low and calmly call their name in a steady voice while observing their behavior.

2. If your cat doesn’t appear tense or try to run away when you call their name, stay low and slowly approach while continuing to speak softly. If they come up to sniff your outstretched fingers, you may be able to gently touch and safely pick them up by hand. Offering their favorite treat can also help ease their tension.

3. If you successfully catch them with your bare hands, immediately place them in a Cat Carrier to prevent them from slipping out of your arms and escaping. If you don’t have a carrier, a mesh laundry bag can be used as a substitute.

4. If your cat starts to back away with their back arched as you approach―or sniffs your fingers but still seems wary―remain crouched and wait patiently until they relax. It may take 30 minutes or more, but give them time to feel safe.

5. If your cat doesn’t calm down, step away from the area for now. Trying to force a capture may scare them into fleeing again, which means having to start locating their whereabouts all over again. In such cases, use a Trap Cage for a more reliable capture.
If your cat has hidden in a spot and won’t come out, block off the surrounding area with bricks or other barriers to prevent escape. Then, set up the Trap Cage at the exit.

It’s understandable that many cat owners feel overwhelmed when their cat goes missing, and that they immediately start looking for a Lost Pet Recovery Specialist.
However, before hiring a Lost Pet Recovery Specialist, we recommend using the free chatbot "500 Ways to Find Your Lost Pet," to identify the most effective strategies for your cat’s current situation. Depending on the method used, your own search efforts may actually be more effective than those of a hired specialist―especially if their approach isn’t well-matched to your case.

If you decide to hire a specialist after reviewing search methods, we encourage you to check the following points in advance:

1. Fee Structure
Lost Pet Recovery Specialists may offer different types of fee structures:
- A fixed fee, regardless of the time spent or results delivered
- A time-based fee, charged according to working hours
- A success-based fee, only charged if a certain result is achieved
If the contract is success-based, be sure to check what is defined as "success.” In some cases, even receiving a single sighting may trigger the success fee.

2. Cancellation Policy
Confirm when cancellation fees begin to apply and whether mid-contract cancellation is allowed.
Some contracts impose a cancellation penalty if the agreement is terminated after work begins.

It is advisable to avoid specialists who do not clearly state their fee structure and cancellation policy on their website.

3. Search Schedule and Tasks
Contact the specialist directly and ask:
- When they would be able to start the search
- What specific actions they plan to take
Describe your cat’s situation in detail and ask what steps you should take while waiting for the search to begin.

4. Information Handoff
If your cat is not found during the contracted period, you will need to continue the search on your own.
Ask if they will provide a map or record showing:
- Where Lost Cat Flyers were posted
- Feeding spots
- Locations of trail cameras and trap cages
This ensures you can take over the search without losing progress.

5. Estimate
Once you are comfortable with the above, request a written estimate.
In most cases, additional charges such as travel and out-of-pocket expenses will apply.
If the specialist is located far from your area, transportation costs may be significant.

A trail camera is a motion-activated device designed to automatically capture photos and videos of wildlife outdoors. It works both during the day and at night.

When an animal―such as a cat―comes near, the camera detects the movement and records images or video accordingly.
Trail cameras are battery-operated, waterproof, and store the captured footage on an internal memory card.

These cameras are especially useful for checking whether your missing cat is coming to eat the food you’ve left out or for monitoring activity around a Trap Cage.
Because they operate silently and without revealing any human presence, they provide continuous overnight surveillance―making them a highly effective tool in the search for a lost cat.

Trail Camera: Cat Approaches Trap Cage

Note: Trail camera setup procedures may vary depending on the model, so please refer to the user manual for detailed instructions.

1. Camera Settings
- Video: 2-minute recording duration, sound on
- Motion sensor sensitivity: Medium

2. Camera Placement
Position the trail camera about 1–2 meters (3–6 feet) away from the food or Trap Cage. Make sure the cat’s full body is visible from the side so you can clearly identify their tail shape and coat pattern. Some cameras may overexpose the image at night if placed too close, making the cat appear completely white. Be sure to test the camera distance in advance to avoid overexposure at night.

3. Getting Permission
If placing the camera on someone else’s property or at a feeding spot, always obtain permission beforehand.
Label the camera with the purpose, installation period, and your contact information.

4. Theft Prevention
If setting up in a public area, place the camera somewhere less noticeable―such as tucked into a bush or behind an object.
We also recommend using a lockable cable to secure it to a post or other fixture.

5. Installation Period
Set up the camera at sunset and check the footage the following morning.
Since your Lost Cat may not appear right away, keep the camera in place for at least two nights.
If there are no sightings after two days, move the camera to a different location.

Trail Camera: Cat Approaches Trap Cage

When your cat goes missing, there are often multiple potential hiding spots and feeding spots around where they disappeared or were last seen. If you have enough trail cameras, you can monitor all of these spots. But if you don’t, you can make your own alternative:
Cardboard Tube Detector (a square cardboard tube with sticky tape attached to the inside).

While this method doesn’t offer visual confirmation like a trail camera, it’s inexpensive and easy to make in large numbers. You can place several at once to help narrow down the most promising locations.

How to Make and Use a Cardboard Tube Trap:
1. Create a long, square cardboard tube―large enough for a cat to crouch and enter.

2. Attach loops of cloth adhesive tape (sticky side out) to the inside top and side surfaces of the tube.

3. Place a generous amount of food in the center of the bottom of the tube.

4. Since some cats may be too cautious to enter even the cardboard tube, scatter a small amount of food near the entrance to check if they at least came close.

5. If a cat enters the tube to eat the food, their fur may stick to the adhesive tape.
If you notice the food has been eaten, inspect the tape for any fur. If the fur color looks like your cat’s, set up a trail camera at that location to confirm visually.
If a trail camera is not available, consider placing a Trap Cage instead.

There are various types of Trap Cages, but for most cat owners, we recommend using a trip-plate trap (spring-loaded trap)―a model that is easy to obtain and simple to operate.

This type of Trap Cage works by placing food at the back to lure the cat inside. When the cat steps on the trip plate, the spring mechanism triggers the door to close behind them.

If the Trap Cage is too small, the door may not close properly―especially if the cat's tail or hind legs are still near the opening―allowing them to escape.
Look for a model that is approximately 762 mm (30 in) long, 254 mm (10 in) wide, and 254 mm (10 in) high.

Here’s how to use a commercially available trip-plate trap (spring-loaded trap) to capture your cat.
Trap cage usage may vary depending on the manufacturer, so please refer to the instruction manual for details.



1. Establishing a Feeding Routine
- Only place the trap cage after you’ve confirmed where your cat is.
If you set it too early, it may catch other cats, making management difficult and possibly leading to neighborhood conflicts.
- Once you’ve located your lost cat, place food at that spot at the same time each day to get them used to coming.
Set up the trap cage only during the time they usually come to eat―this helps reduce the chance of catching other cats.

2. Getting Permission
- If placing the trap on property you don’t own, obtain permission from the landowner.
- If there are outdoor-access cats nearby, ask their owners to keep them inside during trapping hours.
- If there are community cats nearby, ask the caretakers to feed them away from the trap and in large enough amounts so they’re not tempted.
- Label the trap cage with the purpose, installation period, and your contact information.

3. Managing Feeding Spots
Cats won’t go into a trap unless they’re hungry.
If someone nearby is feeding cats, explain your situation and ask them to manage their feeding schedule so your cat doesn’t eat there.

4. Safety Check and Cleaning Before Use
- Make sure there are no sharp edges that could injure your cat. If there are, file them down.
- Check that the sliding gate at the back cannot be pushed upward by the cat. If it can be opened even with light pressure, secure it with cable ties.
- Confirm that stepping on the trip plate causes the door to close immediately.
If the door shuts from slight vibrations (like shaking), adjust the hook to secure it more firmly.
- If the trap smells like other cats, deodorize it thoroughly with spray or rinse with water.

5. Making the Trap Cage More Comfortable
- Cover the trap with a sheet to block the mesh and create a dark, calm space.
Using a sheet that has your cat’s scent can help them feel safer.
Place a pee pad or similar material inside to make it easier to walk on.
- Use your cat’s favorite food as bait. Strong-smelling items like grilled fish can also help.
- During bug season, place the food on a raised dish inside a shallow dish of water to deter slugs and insects.

6. Trap Placement
- Choose a quiet location where people won’t disturb the trap.
Place the trap cage parallel to, but slightly off to the side of a narrow path the cat is likely to use―this is more effective than placing it directly in the middle.
- Even if the food is tempting, cats may be wary of an unfamiliar trap.
Place it near bushes, cars, sheds, or under the deck so they can observe it calmly before approaching.
Cautious cats often watch for a while before deciding it’s safe.
- Place a small amount of food just in front of the trap entrance.
Even if the cat doesn’t enter, if the food disappears, you’ll know an animal came.
Do not place any other food nearby―if your cat satisfies their hunger there, they may not risk entering the trap.

7. Use a Trail Camera to Monitor
If your cat doesn’t get caught in the trap cage, set up a trail camera facing the trap.
This helps determine whether they are approaching but avoiding it, or not coming at all.



8. Trap Monitoring and Safety
- Depending on your cat’s personality and living environment, it’s best to set the trap from evening to early morning when it’s quiet.
- Do not use the trap during hot daytime hours in summer―there’s a serious risk of heatstroke.
- Once the trap is set, leave the area so your cat doesn’t sense your presence.
- If there are signs of human activity around the trap, the cat may avoid it.
Check whether the door is closed by shining a flashlight from a distance.
- If an animal remains trapped too long, they may be injured or exhausted.
Check from a distance every 3 hours. If the door is still open, leave quietly.
- If another animal is accidentally caught, release it immediately while avoiding injury to either party.
Take care not to be scratched on your wrists or arms, as there’s a risk of infection.
If scratched or bitten, rinse the wound thoroughly under running water and seek medical attention.
- If the trapped cat looks similar to yours, take clear photos of any distinguishing features before releasing them.
These photos may help confirm or rule out future sightings reported in response to your Lost Cat Flyers.

9. If You Catch Your Cat
- If you successfully catch your cat, do not open the trap on the spot.
Take them home, close all doors and windows, and only then release them indoors.
- If your cat appears injured or weak, keep them in the trap cage and take them to a veterinary clinic right away.

Some cats―especially those that have been trapped before―may avoid entering a Trap Cage unless they are extremely hungry. In such cases, you’ll need to take time to gradually get them used to the trap cage.

1. Make Sure Your Cat Is Hungry
Cats won’t go into a trap unless they’re hungry.
Do not leave any food out except for the purpose of helping them get used to the Trap Cage.
If someone nearby is feeding cats, explain the situation and ask them to temporarily manage their feeding spot so your cat doesn’t eat there.

2. Get the Cat Used to the Trap Cage
- Set up a trail camera to observe how your cat behaves around the trap.
- Use cable ties to keep the trap door open, preventing it from closing when the trip plate is stepped on.
- Remove the sliding gate at the back of the trap so the cat can walk all the way through.
- Place a small amount of food just in front of the entrance, and another portion 30 cm away from the entrance.
- Place a generous amount of food at the back of the trap.

3. Activate the Trap Cage
Once your cat starts going all the way into the trap cage to eat, set the trap to function properly.
- Remove the cable ties holding the door open.
- Reinsert the sliding gate at the back.

4. If Your Cat Still Refuses to Enter
- For 2 days, make sure there’s absolutely no food available outside the Trap Cage to maintain your cat’s hunger.
- If your cat still refuses to enter, you may need to stop using the trip-plate trap and switch to a different type.
These alternative traps are not sold commercially and must be handmade or provided by a Lost Pet Recovery Specialist.

Drop Trap: Relatively simple to build and use


Circle Trap: For highly cautious cats that avoid even drop traps

If your cat keeps coming to eat at the same time and place but still refuses to enter a trip-plate trap due to caution, consider switching to a drop trap.
Drop traps are manually operated, so you’ll need to stay nearby and be ready to activate the trap yourself. While this can be tiring, the cat is less likely to recognize it as a trap, which increases your chances of success. It also reduces the risk of accidentally capturing other cats.

Although professional-grade drop traps are available for purchase, they can be difficult for the general public to obtain. Here, we’ll explain how to make one using a store-bought wire basket.



1. How to Make a Drop Trap
- Materials Needed: Wire basket, U-shaped ground peg, thin metal rod, 4 cable ties, approx. 20 meters of polyethylene rope, snap hook
- Tools for Use On-Site: Nipper, Cat Carrier

1.1 Create an Exit Opening for the Cat
- If you lift the basket after trapping a cat, they may escape through large gaps. To prevent this, create an exit opening specifically for removing the cat.
- Cut a hole in the side of the wire basket large enough for your cat to pass through. Use a file to smooth out any sharp edges to avoid injury.
- Reattach the cut-out piece with cable ties to serve as a lid you can open when needed.



1.2 Attach the Prop Rod to the Basket
- Bend both ends of the thin metal rod and attach it to the U-shaped ground peg. This rod will be used to hook the snap hook.
- Bend the tips on both sides of the U-shaped peg and attach it to the basket in a way that allows it to rotate. This peg will serve as the prop rod to support the basket.



1.3 Attach the Rope to the Prop Rod
- Tie the polyethylene rope to the snap hook.
- Hook the snap hook onto the metal rod attached to the U-shaped peg.



2. Practice Before Use
Practice pulling the rope all at once so the basket drops instantly.
Even slight movement or vibration can cause the cat to dart out from underneath. Keep practicing until you can pull the rope smoothly and decisively.

3. How to Use the Drop Trap
3.1 Set Up the Basket
Lift the basket and prop it up using the U-shaped peg as the support rod.

3.2 Place the Bait
- To lure your cat into the back of the basket, place a small amount of food in two spots: one slightly away from the basket and one just in front of the entrance.
- Place a generous portion of their favorite food at the back of the basket.
- Adding a blanket or sheet with your cat’s scent can help them feel more comfortable.

3.3 Wait in Hiding
- Hide at a distance and wait for your cat to arrive.
- Once they appear, hold the rope―still hooked onto the prop rod―taut, and wait patiently until your cat walks deep into the basket.



3.4 Pull the Rope Quickly
When your cat is fully inside and starts eating, pull the rope swiftly to drop the basket.

3.5 Press Down on the Basket
Panicked cats can be strong and may try to escape by lifting the basket. Press down on the top immediately to prevent this.



3.6 Remove the Exit Cover
- Open the Cat Carrier door and press it firmly against the exit opening.
- Use a nipper to cut the cable ties securing the lid and remove the exit cover.

3.7 Transfer Your Cat into the Carrier
- Gently move your cat from the basket into the Cat Carrier.
- If they hesitate, use a stick or similar object to gently guide them from behind.

4. If Your Cat Won’t Go Under the Drop Trap
4.1 If Your Cat Is Afraid of the Drop Trap
If your cat avoids the basket itself, try covering it with a camouflage net or other material to make it less noticeable.

4.2 If Your Cat Is Afraid of People
- If your cat is avoiding the trap due to sensing your presence, start feeding them under the basket to help them get used to it.
- Leave food, walk away, and monitor their behavior using a trail camera.
- Cautious cats won’t take the risk of entering unless they’re hungry―so do not leave food around the trap.
- Once your cat begins entering the basket to eat, stay nearby and pull the rope quickly at the right moment to capture them.

If your cat avoids both trip-plate traps and drop traps due to caution, you can modify a commercially available dog playpen to create a circle trap. Circle traps have a wide and open structure, so most cats don’t recognize them as traps and will walk in without hesitation.

However, operating a circle trap is more difficult than a drop trap. If the trap fails once, the cat may become wary and refuse to enter again. Be sure to practice until you can close the door quickly and reliably.

1. How to Make a Circle Trap
Materials Needed: Enclosed dog playpen with a roof, 2 door latches, 4 cable ties, 2 pieces of cardboard, approx. 20 meters of polyethylene rope, snap hook

1.1 Attach the Door Latches
- Insert a slightly thicker piece of cardboard between each door latch and the wire mesh of the playpen.
- Secure the latches with cable ties. When the latches are attached, the door will lock shut and cannot be opened from the inside.

1.2 Attach the Rope to the Door
- Tie the polyethylene rope to the snap hook.
- Hook the snap hook onto the door.
- Thread the rope from the inside of the circle trap to the outside.



2. Practice Before Use
Practice pulling the rope quickly to shut the door.
Even slight movement or vibration of the playpen can cause the cat to dart out. To prevent this, practice until you can close the door instantly by pulling the rope in one swift motion.


3. How to Use the Circle Trap
3.1 Open the Door
Open the playpen door. Don’t open it too wide―If it’s opened too wide, the rope may fail to close the door when pulled.

3.2 Place the Bait
- To guide the cat deep into the playpen, place small amounts of food in three locations: one slightly away from the entrance, one near the entrance, and one in the center.
- Place a generous amount of their favorite food at the very back of the playpen.
- Adding a blanket or item with your cat’s scent inside the playpen can help make them feel more comfortable.

3.3 Wait in Hiding
- Hide at a distance from the trap and quietly wait for your cat to arrive.
- When your cat appears, hold the rope taut and wait patiently until they walk deep into the playpen.



3.4 Pull the Rope Quickly
Once your cat has entered the back of the playpen and starts eating, quickly pull the rope to shut the door.



3.5 Bring Your Cat Home Inside the Trap
- Even if you successfully trap your cat, do not try to transfer them into a Cat Carrier on the spot, as they may escape.
- Bring your cat home while they are still inside the trap. Once indoors, with all doors and windows closed, carefully transfer the cat from the trap.


4. If Your Cat Won’t Enter the Circle Trap
4.1 If Your Cat Is Afraid of the Trap
If your cat is wary of the playpen, try covering it with a camouflage net or similar material to make it less noticeable.

4.2 If Your Cat Is Afraid of People
- If your cat is avoiding the trap due to sensing human presence, start feeding them inside the trap to get them accustomed.
- After placing the food, walk away and observe their behavior using a trail camera.
- Cautious cats won’t enter the trap unless they’re hungry, so do not leave any other food around the trap.
- Once the cat begins entering the trap to eat, wait nearby and pull the rope quickly at the right moment to capture them.

1. If You Safely Recover Your Cat at Night
If your cat is injured or severely weakened, take them to a 24-hour emergency animal hospital for immediate treatment.

2. Even If They Seem Fine
Even if your cat appears to be in good condition, have them checked by your regular veterinarian. Ask the vet to check for dehydration, external injuries, damage to teeth or claws, fleas, ticks, parasites, and possible infections.

3. Keep Them Isolated Until Cleared
Until your cat has been fully examined, keep them in a cage or a separate room to prevent potential transmission of infectious diseases to other pets or people.

4. If They Were Bitten in a Fight
If your cat was bitten in a fight, swelling or infection may appear a few days later. Monitor them closely, and if you notice signs of swelling or pus, take them to the vet for treatment.

5. Avoid Stressful Bathing
Unless your cat is extremely dirty, avoid bathing them right away, as it may cause unnecessary stress. Let them groom themselves first. If needed, gently wipe off any dirt using a pet-safe body wipe without harsh chemicals, or a well-wrung warm damp towel.

6. If You Were Bitten or Scratched During Capture
If you were bitten or scratched while capturing your cat, you may be at risk of infection. Immediately rinse the wound thoroughly under running water. If swelling occurs, seek medical treatment right away.

Even after being safely brought home, some cats may remain unsettled.

- If you become emotional or raise your voice after bringing your cat home, it may cause them to feel anxious. As difficult as it may be, try to stay calm and gently welcome them back.
- Being outdoors can be a stressful experience for your cat, and they may still be overstimulated. If they seem agitated, keep them in a quiet room for a while to help them settle down.
- If you have other cats in the home, they may react aggressively due to unfamiliar outdoor scents on your found cat. Keep them separated for the time being.
- Most cats begin to calm down within a week. Be patient and give them time to adjust at their own pace.

Once your lost cat has safely returned home, please take the time to let everyone who provided sightings or helped with the search know, and thank them for their support.

If you posted Lost Cat Flyers with permission, attach a note that says "Found” and take them down after about 3 days. Many people in your community were likely concerned and hoping for a happy outcome.

Notify any places where you filed a lost report―such as the local police station, animal control center, public works department (road cleaning division), and veterinary clinics―that your cat has been found.

We’re so glad your cat is home safe.
Here’s to many more happy moments with your beloved cat by your side!

We’re so glad your cat is home safe. No one wants to go through the stress of a missing cat again―not you, and certainly not your cat. It helps to remember that "cats are animals who may dart out when given the chance.” Please stay alert and raise your awareness level in moments when escape risks are high.

1. Escaping from Home
For indoor cats, the most common way they go missing is by escaping from their own home.

1.1 Escaping Through a Window
The most frequent cause is an unlocked window. Even if there’s a screen, cats can push it open or tear through it. Sometimes, a family member may leave a window open. If you’re concerned, double-check that everything is securely closed.

1.2 Escaping Through the Front Door
Cats often slip out through the front door during departure, arrival, or delivery times. Many owners don’t notice when it happens. No matter how careful you are, it’s hard to block a cat from dashing out when you open the door from outside. To prevent escapes, install a tall barrier gate to create a double-door setup.

1.3 Escaping from an Unfamiliar Home
If you’ve just moved or recently adopted the cat, they may not be used to the new home and are more likely to try to escape. Extra caution is needed.


2. Escaping from a Car
Cats are often transported by car for vet visits or trips. The outside environment can overstimulate them, and during moments of distraction―like opening or closing the door―cats may escape.

2.1 Escaping Through Doors or Windows
Cats may jump out as soon as the door is opened or through open windows. Always place your cat in a Cat Carrier before opening the car door or window.

2.2 Opening the Window Themselves
Some cats can press the power window switch and escape through the opening. For safety, always keep them secured in a Cat Carrier while inside the car.


3. Escaping from a Cat Carrier
Many cats dislike being in carriers and may attempt to escape.

3.1 Escaping During Transfer
Cats often escape during the process of putting them in or taking them out of the carrier. Assume they might panic and struggle. Always handle carriers in a closed room with doors and windows shut.

3.2 Escaping from Inside the Carrier
Cats can sometimes break out of carriers by forcing open zippers or damaging weak spots. Choose a well-built carrier with a secure, escape-proof zipper design.


4. Escaping During Walks
Cats frequently flee during walks due to fear, loud noises, or chasing after something that catches their attention.

4.1 The Leash Slips Out of Your Hand
Even with a leash, many cats escape during walks. A loud sound, person, or dog can cause panic, making the cat uncontrollable. If they thrash wildly, the leash can easily slip out of your hand.

4.2 Escaping from the Harness
Cats are flexible and may wriggle out of a harness.

4.3 Escaping from Your Arms
Even if you're just carrying your cat to a neighbor’s house, they can suddenly flee if startled or overstimulated. Holding them securely in such moments is nearly impossible.
For safety, consider using a Cat Carrier during walks instead.


5. Outdoor-Access Cats Who Don’t Come Home
The outside world is full of risks. Even if your cat has always come home in the past, there's no guarantee they always will. To prevent them from wanting to go outside, consider creating a fun and comfortable indoor environment that satisfies their need for exercise and stimulation.


Be Prepared for the Unexpected
Even with the best prevention, accidents happen. Here are some preparations that can help if your cat ever goes missing.

1. Put a Collar on Your Cat
- For example, there are many black cats, but a black cat with a red collar stands out. A collar helps identify your cat quickly on Lost Cat Flyers and during sightings.
- If your contact information is on the collar, animal control staff can call you.
- A collar also shows the cat is owned, reducing the risk of them being mistaken for a stray and taken in by someone else.
- That said, if your indoor cat gets outside, their collar might come off while crawling through tight spaces. So be sure to add a note on your Lost Cat Flyer: "The collar may have come off.”

2. Take Clear Photos of Your Cat
To prepare in case you need to make a Lost Cat Flyer, take photos that clearly show your cat’s full body from the front while sitting, full body from the side while walking, the shape of their tail, and any distinctive features such as ear tip or unique coat patterns.

3. Microchip Your Cat
Microchips don’t provide GPS tracking, but they do confirm your cat’s identity. If your cat is taken in by animal control, they can contact you. If someone unknowingly adopts your cat, you’ll have proof of ownership.

4. Talk With Your Family
These measures aren’t something you can do alone. If you live with others, discuss together what it takes to safely live with cats who may dart out when given the chance.
We hope your days ahead are calm and filled with peace―without the stress of another lost cat search.

What You’ll Need: Treats or toys, a collar, and a leash

1. Don’t Shout Their Name or Chase Them
When you spot your Lost Dog, shouting their name and rushing toward them may cause them to panic and run away. They may be startled by your unusual behavior or may have become more cautious due to the stress of being separated from you. Instead of running up to them, call their name in a calm, familiar voice from a distance to help them recognize you. Once they seem to acknowledge you, slowly and gently approach to bring them to safety.

2. If They Mistake It for Play
In some cases―especially right after they’ve gone missing―dogs may misinterpret being chased as play and run off even farther. If this happens, don’t pursue them. Instead, take a few steps back while calling them to encourage them to come toward you.

3. Traffic Hazards
One of the most critical safety concerns when calling your dog back is traffic. If you see your dog across a road, always check for oncoming cars before calling them. Never call them when vehicles are passing through, as they may run straight into the road without looking, which is extremely dangerous.

4. Once You’ve Caught Them
Once you’ve safely recovered them, check that their collar is secure. They may have lost weight and the collar might now slip off easily. If so, tighten the collar before attaching the leash. If your dog seems excited, put a harness on them and use a double leash setup to prevent them from escaping again.

While searching for your lost dog, it’s not uncommon to encounter tension or even conflict with neighbors.
To you, your dog is a beloved family member―but not everyone will understand this. Some people may think, "It’s just a dog,” and if they feel bothered by your actions, it could lead to complaints or resistance, making it harder to continue your search in the area.

Some actions may seem harmless in the moment but can upset neighbors. Please be mindful not to:
- Search in groups while talking loudly
- Wander around homes or shine flashlights into yards late at night
- Enter someone’s property or set up trail cameras or trap cages without permission
- Distribute flyers late at night
- Post flyers on utility poles, trees, guardrails, or walls without permission

When searching in a residential area, always carry your Lost Dog Flyer to avoid being mistaken for a suspicious person. It helps explain what you’re doing and may encourage someone who has seen your dog to contact you.

Be thoughtful and respectful as you search. You may find that more people care about lost dogs than you expect, and if you build trust with those around you, many will be willing to support your efforts.

Note: Procedures and agency responsibilities may vary by country or region. Please check with your local authorities for accurate guidance.

1. Police Departments
In most areas, police departments do not have the facilities to house or care for animals. If someone brings a lost dog to the police station, they will often refer them to the local animal control center.
In some regions, the police may keep records of dogs that have been brought in. It’s worth checking whether your dog may be listed.

2. Animal Control Centers
If a dog is taken to an animal control center, they will first receive any necessary medical care. Staff will scan for a microchip, and if owner information is registered, they will attempt to make contact.
If the dog is unidentifiable, they will be held and posted as lost for a designated holding period. Be sure to check the center’s lost-and-found listings regularly.
If no one claims the dog during the holding period, the cat may be put up for adoption or transferred to a rescue organization.

3. Public Works Departments (Road Cleaning Services)
Sadly, if a dog is found deceased―such as from being hit by a car―it may be collected and disposed of by the city’s public works department responsible for road maintenance.
In such cases, remains are often cremated within two to three days, and no official record may be kept. It’s important to contact the department promptly if there is a possibility your dog was involved.

4. Veterinary Clinics
Although not government-run, veterinary clinics often receive lost dogs that have been rescued due to injury or illness.
There have been cases where a passerby found a dog in poor condition and brought them to a clinic near their home. For this reason, it is strongly recommended that you take your Lost Dog Flyer to all clinics within a 10-kilometer radius and ask if they would be willing to display it in their waiting area.

When a dog goes missing, their behavior and whereabouts can vary depending on how long they’ve been gone, their personality, physical condition, age, and the surrounding environment. Below are some common outcomes:

1. They Come Home on Their Own
If the dog went missing from home or during a walk near home, they may find their way back on their own.

2. They Stay Hidden Nearby
Extremely cautious dogs may become overwhelmed after the initial excitement wears off. Instead of wandering, they may crawl into a dark, narrow, and tucked-away spot to hide.

Once they become hungry, they may start sneaking out at quiet times to search for food and water, then return to hiding again. This pattern can repeat as they gradually move farther while searching for food. It’s common for dogs to hide near rivers or other places where water is available.

Injured or weakened dogs may also stay hidden in a safe place while waiting to regain their strength.

3. They Wander Too Far to Find Their Way Back
3.1 Indoor Dogs Usually Can’t Find Their Way Home
There’s a common belief that "dogs always come back because they have a strong homing instinct,” but this rarely applies to indoor dogs who have wandered far from home.

In the past, dogs often roamed freely and naturally returned home when hungry. But today, most dogs are kept indoors and are unfamiliar with navigating unfamiliar places. Once separated, they may become disoriented and continue walking in the wrong direction. Hunger eventually drives them to wander aimlessly in search of food.

Unless they accidentally stumble across a familiar location, it’s unlikely they’ll return home on their own.

3.2 How Far They Travel
Travel distance depends on age, but as a general guide, lost dogs may move the following distances in a day:
- Extra-small dogs: up to 0.5 km
- Small dogs: up to 1 km
- Medium to large dogs: up to 5 km
Some dogs may travel even farther, depending on their breed and stamina.

In open areas like mountains or farmland, dogs tend to travel farther. Even small dogs can cross busy roads, train tracks, or rivers that might seem impassable. If they lose their sense of direction, they may wander randomly or circle the same area repeatedly.

Friendly dogs tend to move toward places with people, while cautious dogs avoid them and head for quiet, isolated areas.

3.3 How Long They Keep Wandering
For the first several days, dogs may keep moving in hopes of returning home. But as hunger sets in, finding food becomes their top priority.

Even if they’re trying to head home, their energy will decline if they can’t find food. Searching for food also takes time, shortening their daily travel distance. In contrast to the past, where dogs could rely on people for scraps or leftovers, today’s environment makes long-distance roaming more difficult.

After a month or more, the physical toll of living outdoors builds up. If they find a place where they can regularly eat, they often settle there. In many cases, local residents or authorities eventually step in and rescue them.

4. They Try to Return to Their Previous Home
Some dogs escape shortly after being rehomed and attempt to return to their previous residence or familiar outdoor location. While some succeed, others head in the wrong direction and get lost.

5. They Are Taken to a Veterinary Clinic or Animal Control Center
Dogs wandering alone are very noticeable and are often reported and picked up by local animal control or the police. If your contact info is written on their collar, you may be notified right away.

There have also been cases where a sick or injured dog was rescued by someone and taken to a nearby veterinary clinic or animal control center.

6. They Are Sheltered in Someone’s Home
Kind individuals sometimes take in a dog that appears injured or unwell and care for them at home without filing a report.

7. They Are Adopted by Someone
If the dog wasn’t wearing a collar―or it had come off―they may be mistaken for a stray and adopted. Once brought indoors, they are no longer visible outside.

8. They Become a Stray Dog
If no one rescues them, they may start living as a stray dog.

9. They Pass Away
Sadly, some dogs may die due to accidents, illness, or malnutrition.

A dog’s behavior when they go missing can vary depending on their age.
Based on our search experience, we would like to share how dogs of different age groups tend to behave when they go missing.
Of course, please keep in mind that a dog’s behavior is also influenced by factors such as how long they’ve been missing, their personality, physical condition, and the surrounding environment―so individual differences are always to be expected.

1. Puppy Stage (Under 1 Year)
Puppies are full of curiosity and act impulsively, showing interest in everything around them.
However, once the excitement fades and they realize they don’t know how to get home, they may suddenly become anxious and start moving around unpredictably.
Because of their friendly nature, some puppies may approach people or other dogs on their own and end up being rescued.

2. Adult Stage (1–6 Years)
At this age, dogs are physically and mentally active and tend to move around energetically, even when lost.
They may explore areas that smell of other dogs or investigate new places out of interest. Rather than moving in a straight line, they often stop and sniff various locations as they go.
Because of their energy and mobility, people often assume they’ve traveled far, but in reality, they are sometimes found much closer than expected.

3. Senior Stage (7 Years and Older)
As dogs reach their senior years, they tend to stay calm and make thoughtful decisions, even when lost.
Since they usually don’t feel physically weak yet, they are more likely to keep moving―either trying to find their way home or searching for a place where they can get food more reliably, rather than staying in one spot.

4. Advanced Senior Stage (12+ Years for Small and Medium Dogs / 10+ Years for Large Dogs)
In this stage, many dogs experience reduced stamina and tire easily, making their daily travel distances shorter.
While they are less driven by marking behavior or interest in other dogs compared to when they were younger, they may move in a more direct path―sometimes ending up farther than expected.
If the dog went missing due to cognitive decline (such as dementia), they may wander slowly and continuously, which can also increase the distance traveled.
Dogs with weakened legs or joints often don’t travel far and tend to stay near rivers or other places where water is available.

Understanding these age-related tendencies can help guide your search strategy and improve your chances of finding your lost dog.

If a dog on medication starts to feel unwell as the effects of the medicine wear off, they will often crawl into a dark, narrow, and secluded place where people or other animals are unlikely to come, in order to wait and recover.
For dogs whose symptoms return quickly after the medication wears off, they are usually unable to travel far and instead try to find a safe hiding spot very close to where they went missing.

When a dog undergoing medical treatment goes missing, many owners tend to assume the worst―thinking the dog may have already passed away because their condition deteriorates quickly without medication.
However, there have been many cases where a dog was found several days later with no serious health issues. It’s important to stay calm and continue your search step by step.

There have also been cases where a sick or injured dog was rescued by someone driving by and taken to a nearby veterinary clinic.
For this reason, be sure to bring your Lost Dog Flyers to all veterinary clinics within at least a 10-kilometer radius, and if possible, ask if they can post the flyer in their waiting area.

If the leash remains attached, it may get caught on a branch or stuck in a narrow space. As the dog struggles to free themselves, the leash may become wrapped around their body, making it impossible for them to move.
Search the surrounding area thoroughly, calling their name while coordinating with others if possible.

A dog with a leash still attached is immediately recognizable as a lost pet. The leash also makes it easier for someone to catch them by stepping on it. In some cases, a kind person may have already rescued your dog and taken them to a local police station or animal control center. Please contact these facilities as soon as possible.

Unlike cats, a dog wandering alone is very noticeable, so including the following information is usually sufficient for a lost dog flyer:

- Your dog’s name
- Photos that clearly show their appearance, coat color, and pattern
- A photo that shows their size
- The date they went missing
- The location where they went missing
- Your contact information
- A request for people to take a photo if they see your dog
- If possible, ask them to safely contain your dog―or, if that’s not feasible, to contact you without chasing them

Quickly post Lost Dog Flyers throughout the search area to reach a wide range of people and collect as many sightings as possible.

Note: Do not post flyers on utility poles, trees, guardrails, or walls without permission. Always get approval before posting.

1. How Far to Post Flyers
Travel distance depends on the dog’s breed and age, but as a general guide, lost dogs may move the following distances in a day:
- Extra-small dogs: up to 0.5 km
- Small dogs: up to 1 km
- Medium to large dogs: up to 5 km

Determine how far to post flyers based on how many days have passed since your dog went missing.

Keep in mind that dogs don’t always move in a straight line―they may wander in circles or stay in one area. If they find a place with a regular food source, they may settle there.
Instead of expanding the flyer posting range indefinitely, set a reasonable maximum radius from the spot where your dog was last seen based on the following guideline:
- Extra-small dogs: up to 5 km
- Small dogs: up to 10 km
- Medium to large dogs: up to 30 km

2. Where to Post Flyers
Post flyers in places where many people gather, such as:
- Convenience stores
- Grocery stores
- Restaurants
- Veterinary clinics
- Pet supply stores and grooming salons

3. Managing Your Flyers
When posting at a facility, always inform the manager how long you plan to keep the flyer up.
Keep a record of all the locations where flyers are posted by marking them on a map.

Sightings calls often come unexpectedly. To avoid panicking when you receive one, it’s helpful to prepare in advance by writing down the following items in a notebook or memo app that you can easily access at any time.

When you receive a sightings call, start by sincerely thanking the caller, then ask for details about the sighting.

1. Ask for details about the sighting―when they saw the dog (and how long they’ve been seeing them), the exact location, what the dog was doing at the time, and which direction they were heading.

2. If they have a photo, ask them to send it via SMS or another messaging method.

3. Ask for the caller’s name, and if possible, request permission to contact them again. Also, ask if they would be willing to take a photo if they see the dog again.

4. Save the caller’s information in your phone contacts with a clear label such as "Sighting Info – Mr. Yamada." This way, if they call again, you’ll immediately recognize who it is.

5. If there’s a chance your dog is still in the area, explain how they tend to behave―such as barking, biting, or running away―and, if appropriate, kindly ask the caller if they’d be willing to try catching your dog or keeping an eye on them until you arrive―only if they feel safe doing so.

Sharing information on social media can be helpful for quickly letting many people know that your dog is missing.
When posting, be sure to include the following information and ask others to share it:
- Your dog’s name
- Photos that clearly show their appearance, coat color, and pattern
- A photo that shows their size
- The date they went missing
- The location where they went missing
- Your contact information
- A request for people to take a photo if they see your dog
- If possible, ask them to safely contain your dog―or, if that’s not feasible, to contact you without chasing them

In addition to posting, search for other posts about found or sighted dogs in your area.
If you find one that might be your dog, contact the person who made the post.

However, because posts can be seen by a wide and unspecified audience, there are also some downsides. In addition to genuine sightings, you may begin receiving personal stories about others’ lost dogs or repeated unsolicited advice. Responding to these can take up valuable time and energy. In some cases, you may even receive unkind or critical comments. To avoid emotional fatigue, it’s often best to ask someone else to manage social media communications on your behalf.

While searching for your lost dog, it’s not uncommon to encounter tension or even conflict with neighbors.
To you, your dog is a beloved family member―but not everyone will understand this. Some people may think, "It’s just a dog,” and if they feel bothered by your actions, it could lead to complaints or resistance, making it harder to continue your search in the area.

Some actions may seem harmless in the moment but can upset neighbors. Please be mindful not to:
- Search in groups while talking loudly
- Wander around homes or shine flashlights into yards late at night
- Enter someone’s property or set up trail cameras or trap cages without permission
- Distribute flyers late at night
- Post flyers on utility poles, trees, guardrails, or walls without permission

When searching in a residential area, always carry your Lost Dog Flyer to avoid being mistaken for a suspicious person. It helps explain what you’re doing and may encourage someone who has seen your dog to contact you.

Be thoughtful and respectful as you search. You may find that more people care about lost dogs than you expect, and if you build trust with those around you, many will be willing to support your efforts.

What You’ll Need: your dog’s favorite treats, toys, leash

1. Don’t Shout Their Name or Chase Them
When you spot your Lost Dog, shouting their name and rushing toward them may cause them to panic and run away. They may be startled by your unusual behavior or may have become more cautious due to the stress of being separated from you. Instead of running up to them, call their name in a calm, familiar voice from a distance to help them recognize you. Once they seem to acknowledge you, slowly and gently approach to bring them to safety.

2. If They Mistake It for Play
In some cases―especially right after they’ve gone missing―dogs may misinterpret being chased as play and run off even farther. If this happens, don’t pursue them. Instead, take a few steps back while calling them to encourage them to come toward you.

3. Traffic Hazards
One of the most critical safety concerns when calling your dog back is traffic. If you see your dog across a road, always check for oncoming cars before calling them. Never call them when vehicles are passing through, as they may run straight into the road without looking, which is extremely dangerous.

4. Once You’ve Caught Them
Once you’ve safely recovered them, check that their collar is secure. They may have lost weight and the collar might now slip off easily. If so, tighten the collar before attaching the leash. If your dog seems excited, put a harness on them and use a double leash setup to prevent them from escaping again.

A trail camera is a motion-activated device designed to automatically capture photos and videos of wildlife outdoors. It works both during the day and at night.

When an animal―such as a dog or a cat―comes near, the camera detects the movement and records images or video accordingly.
Trail cameras are battery-operated, waterproof, and store the captured footage on an internal memory card.

These cameras are especially useful for checking whether your missing dog is coming to eat the food you’ve left out or for monitoring activity around a Trap Cage.
Because they operate silently and without revealing any human presence, they provide continuous overnight surveillance―making them a highly effective tool in the search for a lost dog.

Trail Camera: Cat Approaches Trap Cage

Note: Trail camera setup procedures may vary depending on the model, so please refer to the user manual for detailed instructions.

1. Camera Settings
- Video: 2-minute recording duration, sound on
- Motion sensor sensitivity: Medium

2. Camera Placement
Position the trail camera about 1–2 meters (3–6 feet) away from the food or Trap Cage. Some cameras may overexpose the image at night if placed too close, making the dog appear completely white. Be sure to test the camera distance in advance to avoid overexposure at night.

3. Getting Permission
If placing the camera on someone else’s property or at a feeding spot, always obtain permission beforehand.
Label the camera with the purpose, installation period, and your contact information.

4. Theft Prevention
If setting up in a public area, place the camera somewhere less noticeable―such as tucked into a bush or behind an object.
We also recommend using a lockable cable to secure it to a post or other fixture.

Trail Camera: Cat Approaches Trap Cage

There are various types of dog traps designed for capturing stray dogs, but many of them are difficult to use without professional experience and may pose a risk of injury to the dog.
Instead, we’ll show you how to make and use a circle trap using a commercially available enclosed dog playpen to safely capture your dog.

1. How to Make a Circle Trap
Materials Needed: Enclosed dog playpen with a roof, 2 door latches, 4 cable ties, 2 pieces of cardboard, approx. 20 meters of polyethylene rope, snap hook

1.1 Attach the Door Latches
- Insert a slightly thicker piece of cardboard between each door latch and the wire mesh of the playpen.
- Secure the latches firmly with cable ties. Once the latches are attached, the door will lock shut and cannot be opened from the inside.

1.2 Attach the Rope to the Door
- Tie the polyethylene rope to the snap hook.
- Hook the snap hook onto the door.
- Thread the rope from inside the circle trap to the outside.



2. Practice Before Use
Practice pulling the rope quickly to shut the door.
Even slight movement or shaking of the playpen can cause the dog to run out immediately.
To prevent this, practice until you can pull the rope in one swift motion and close the door instantly.


3. How to Use the Circle Trap
3.1 Open the Door
Open the playpen door, but not too wide.
If the door is opened too far, the rope may not be able to close it properly when pulled.

3.2 Place the Food
- To guide your dog deep into the playpen, place small amounts of food in three spots: slightly away from the entrance, near the entrance, and in the center.
- Place a generous amount of their favorite food at the very back of the playpen.
- Placing a blanket or bedding with your dog’s scent inside the playpen can also help them feel more comfortable.

3.3 Wait in Hiding
- Hide quietly at a distance from the trap and wait for your dog to arrive.
- When your dog appears, hold the rope taut and wait patiently until they walk deep into the playpen.



3.4 Pull the Rope Quickly
Once your dog reaches the back of the playpen and starts eating, quickly pull the rope to shut the door.




4. If Your Dog Won’t Enter the Circle Trap
4.1 If Your Dog Is Afraid of the Trap
If your dog seems wary of the playpen, try covering it with a camouflage net or similar material to make it less noticeable.

4.2 If Your Dog Is Afraid of People
- If your dog is avoiding the trap due to sensing human presence, begin feeding them inside the trap to help them get used to it.
- After placing the food, leave the area and monitor their behavior using a trail camera.
- Cautious dogs won’t enter the trap unless they’re hungry. Do not leave any other food around the trap.
- Once your dog begins entering the trap to eat, wait nearby and pull the rope at the right moment to trap them safely.

1. If You Recover Your Dog at Night
If your dog is injured or severely weakened, take them to a 24-hour emergency animal hospital for immediate care.

2. Their First Meal
In some cases, dogs may not have eaten anything for several days. If they are severely underweight, offer easily digestible food―such as softened dry food or wet food―to avoid putting strain on their stomach.

3. Even If They Seem Fine
Even if your dog appears to be in good condition, take them to your regular veterinarian for a check-up. Ask the vet to examine them for dehydration, external injuries, dental or claw damage, fleas, ticks, parasites, and signs of infection.

4. If They Were Bitten in a Fight
If your dog was bitten in a fight, swelling or infection may not appear until a few days later. Monitor their condition closely, and if you notice any swelling or pus, bring them to the vet immediately.

5. If You Were Bitten or Scratched During Capture
If you were bitten or scratched while capturing your dog, there may be a risk of infection. Rinse the wound thoroughly under running water right away. If swelling or other symptoms develop, seek medical attention without delay.

Once your lost dog has safely returned home, please take the time to let everyone who provided sightings or helped with the search know, and thank them for their support.

If you posted Lost Dog Flyers with permission, attach a note that says "Found” and take them down after about 3 days. Many people in your community were likely concerned and hoping for a happy outcome.

Notify any places where you filed a lost report―such as the local police station, animal control center, public works department (road cleaning division), and veterinary clinics―that your dog has been found.

We’re so glad your dog is home safe.
Here’s to many more happy moments with your beloved dog by your side!