After a few weeks to about a month, an indoor cat afraid of strangers gradually becomes accustomed to their surroundings and gains confidence.
They begin expanding their range little by little in search of better feeding spots, and their activity periods lengthen―making it more likely that someone will spot them.
That’s why you should not only walk around to search, but also expand the area where you distribute Lost Cat Flyers to create a local network of awareness so that residents can contact you if they spot your cat.
If you find an area where stray cats or community cats are present, there is a high likelihood that feeding spots exist there, so be sure to check those areas carefully.
We hope you and your cat will be safely reunited soon.
After a few weeks to about a month outside, the cat becomes accustomed to their surroundings and begins expanding their range in search of better feeding spots.
As a guideline, expand the area where you distribute Lost Cat Flyers to cover a 500-meter radius from your home.
Cats often hide within residential properties or move around in areas that are difficult to see from the street, such as backyards or fences between houses. As a result, it’s more likely that a resident will spot your cat on their property than you will by searching from the street.
If your cat has started to roam and the search area has widened, simply walking around becomes a matter of chance. That’s why it’s important to not only search visually from the street but also distribute Lost Cat Flyers to every household in the area. Even if you don’t see your cat yourself, the flyers create a network of residents who can contact you if they spot them.
By distributing flyers thoroughly, without leaving gaps, you create a local network of awareness―making it more likely that your cat will be seen wherever they go.
If someone has taken in your cat because they were sick or injured, the flyer can help them realize the cat is being searched for. Likewise, if your cat has started visiting a feeding spot, someone may recognize them from the flyer and reach out.
Many cats are successfully found and brought home thanks to sightings reported through Lost Cat Flyers.
When a cat goes missing, many owners tend to fill their Lost Cat Flyer with lots of photos and text in an effort to convey as much information as possible. However, this can actually be counterproductive. If the flyer is too crowded with details, people may not remember anything clearly. As a result, they might not contact you even if they see your cat, or they may report sightings of cats that only share a similar color.
For example, if your brown tabby cat has a kinked tail and an ear tip on the right ear, you should prominently feature a simple description like "Brown Tabby Cat with Kinked Tail," along with a photo that clearly shows the tail and the ear tip. By omitting other less essential details, you help people remember the key traits: "a brown tabby cat with a kinked tail."
Also, to increase the reliability of sightings, be sure to include a note on the flyer that says, "If possible, please take a photo."
1. During the day, distribute Lost Cat Flyers to every household near the place where your cat went missing, starting close by and making sure not to skip a single home. Speaking with residents can take time, so focus on placing the flyers directly into mailboxes. As you post the flyers, also search visually around front yards and other visible areas.
2. Instead of distributing flyers at random, go block by block―covering one block bordered by roads at a time. Mark each household you’ve posted to on a map, and also note locations where a cat might be hiding, such as vacant homes, along with any known feeding spots or outdoor cat activity. This will help you build a detailed search map for your lost cat.
3. Until you receive confirmed sightings, postpone distributing flyers across wide roads or rivers, and instead expand the flyer coverage area evenly in all directions from the point where your cat went missing.
Among stray cats and outdoor-access cats, males generally tend to cover a wider area than females. However, this applies to cats that are already accustomed to being outside. When a cat unfamiliar with the outdoors goes missing, being male does not necessarily mean they have traveled farther.
When an indoor cat afraid of strangers ends up outside, regardless of sex, they often become frightened by the unfamiliar environment and the presence of people. Instinctively, they seek a dark, narrow, and hidden place to crawl into. Once they find a spot that feels safe, they may remain there for days, or even weeks, without coming out.
The distance a lost cat travels depends more on their living environment, personality, the presence of outdoor cats, the availability of feeding spots nearby, and how many days have passed since they went missing―rather than their sex.
A cat’s behavior when they go missing varies depending on their age.
Based on our search experience, we would like to share some behavioral differences we have observed in cats of different ages when they go missing.
Of course, please keep in mind that a cat’s behavior is also influenced by their living environment and personality, so individual differences are always to be expected.
1. Kitten Stage (0–6 Months)
During this period, kittens typically stay close to their mother and live within a small area centered around a secure feeding spot, minimizing stress and movement.
If a small kitten goes missing, they may be attacked by adult cats that see the area as their territory. As a result, they might remain hidden in a safe spot without moving for a while, or they may be forced to relocate after being chased.
Due to their youthful curiosity, they often exhibit a pattern of cautiously emerging from hiding to investigate sounds or movement, then retreating again.
2. Adult Stage (7 Months – 10 Years)
At this age, cats begin to develop a strong sense of territory and have the physical confidence to move actively, even when lost.
They may travel while chasing something that catches their interest or while engaging in territorial disputes with outdoor cats. If they are in heat, they may roam even farther.
Depending on their personality, cats with prior outdoor experience tend to find feeding spots more quickly and are more likely to settle there.
3. Senior Stage (11 – 14 Years)
In their senior years, cats tend to develop a more calm and settled pattern of behavior.
Even if they go missing, they are less likely to be driven by curiosity or to engage in territorial or mating-related conflicts.
Instead, their movements are usually focused on finding a feeding spot where they can eat regularly and a safe place to sleep comfortably.
4. Advanced Senior Stage (15 Years and Older)
In the advanced senior stage, cats often experience weakened legs and joints, making it difficult for them to climb to high places or travel long distances. As a result, they are more likely to stay hidden near home.
For cats undergoing medication, especially those whose symptoms return quickly once the medicine wears off, it is unlikely that they will travel far. Instead, they tend to seek out a safe and secure hiding spot very close to where they went missing.
Understanding these age-related tendencies can help guide your search strategy and improve your chances of finding your lost cat.
If you’ve distributed lost cat flyers but haven’t received any sightings. Below are common reasons why sightings may not come in―and what you can do about each one.
1. Flyer Coverage Has Gaps
Your cat may be hiding in the yard of a house where no flyer was delivered. Even if the resident sees your cat, they won’t realize the cat is missing and won’t think to contact you.
What You Can Do:
Review your flyer distribution map and repost flyers to make sure no homes have been missed.
2. Your Cat Is Hiding Too Well to Be Spotted
The lack of sightings may not mean your cat has traveled far―it could be that they are hiding nearby and simply not coming out during times when people are around.
What You Can Do:
Ask nearby residents for permission to search their property thoroughly using a flashlight―especially under decks, sheds, and crawl spaces.
3. Your Cat Has Moved Beyond the Flyer Area
A lost cat may gradually wander farther from home as they are chased by other cats or roam in search of food and a safe place to sleep.
What You Can Do:
Expand your flyer distribution area gradually:
Within 7 days: up to a 300-meter radius
Within 1 month: up to a 500-meter radius
After 1 month: up to a 1-kilometer radius
Cats don’t continue to roam endlessly. Within about a month, most will find a feeding spot and settle in one area.
4. People Don’t Recognize Your Cat from the Flyer
Your cat may look similar to local outdoor cats, or the flyer design may not clearly show their features.
What You Can Do:
Redesign your flyer to highlight your cat’s most identifiable traits, such as their coat pattern, tail shape, or ear tip.
5. Someone Has Taken Your Cat In
If your cat had no collar or lost it while wandering after going missing, someone may have assumed they were a stray and decided to keep them indoors. Friendly cats are especially at risk of being adopted by someone else.
What You Can Do:
Post flyers thoroughly so the person who has your cat knows someone is looking for them.
Visit all veterinary clinics within a 5-kilometer radius. Many people who take in a cat will bring them to the vet for a checkup. Ask clinics to post your flyer in their waiting room.
6. Your Cat Was Transported by Vehicle
In rare cases, cats have been unintentionally carried away by vehicle―such as in the back of a truck―or picked up by someone and taken elsewhere for care.
What You Can Do:
Use social media to share your flyer beyond your local flyer coverage area. Online posts can help reach people farther away.
7. Your Cat Was Taken to a Shelter or Clinic
Your cat may have been found in poor condition and taken to a veterinary hospital or local animal control facility.
What You Can Do:
Contact nearby shelters and clinics regularly. Check for recent intakes and leave flyers with your contact information.
Sharing information on social media can be helpful for quickly letting many people know that your cat is missing. However, because posts can be seen by a wide and unspecified audience, there are also some downsides. In addition to genuine sightings, you may begin receiving personal stories about others’ lost cats or repeated unsolicited advice. Responding to these can take up valuable time and energy. In some cases, you may even receive unkind or critical comments. To avoid emotional fatigue, it’s often best to ask someone else to manage social media communications on your behalf.
Note: Lost cats are often hiding within a few hundred meters of home, so social media is generally less effective for cats than it is for lost dogs, which tend to travel longer distances. Social media may help in cases where your cat has been taken to a shelter or adopted by someone, but it rarely brings sightings from nearby residents.
Delivering Lost Cat Flyers door to door remains the most effective way to gather sightings of a missing cat. Don’t rely solely on social media―be sure to distribute Lost Cat Flyers as well.
In areas where stray cats or community cats are present, there is a high likelihood that feeding spots exist.
As you distribute Lost Cat Flyers, mark all the feeding spots you find on a map, and use a trail camera to systematically check each one―starting with those closest to your home.
While it depends on the cat’s personality and past experiences, cats that live with other cats tend to be more familiar with how to approach or keep a safe distance from other cats they encounter outside, in a way that avoids conflict.
Although it also depends on how well they get along with the cats they encounter outside, they generally have fewer issues at feeding spots―such as being able to access food or avoiding trouble when entering another cat’s territory.
Cats generally don’t seek out conflict with each other, so when they encounter one another, they usually keep their distance and avoid confrontation. However, if there are outdoor cats in the area, there are several things you should consider:
- Your cat may have been chased away by other cats and moved to a different location.
- Your cat may be drawn to a feeding spot.
- You may receive sightings of cats that look similar to yours.
Adjust your search strategy according to the following situations:
1. If there is a dominant stray cat nearby
Some neighborhoods have a strong or territorial stray cat that may drive other cats away. When asking around the neighborhood, be sure to ask if anyone has heard the sound of cats fighting recently. This may be a sign that your cat was chased away.
2. If there are stray or community cats in the area
In areas where stray or community cats are present, it’s highly likely that there’s a feeding spot nearby. Stray cats don’t usually stay in one place unless they have access to a steady food source, so their presence often indicates someone is providing food in the area.
Even if the person feeding the cats says, "Your cat hasn’t come here," keep in mind that they may not have noticed. Politely ask for permission to set up a trail camera for at least two days to check whether your cat has visited the spot.
3. If There’s a Similar-Looking Cat Nearby
If there is a cat in your neighborhood with a coat color or pattern similar to your own cat’s, you may start receiving sightings of that other cat.
To avoid this, redesign your Lost Cat Flyer to highlight your cat’s most identifiable traits, such as their coat pattern, tail shape, or ear tip, so people can clearly tell the difference.
Note: Trail camera setup procedures may vary depending on the model, so please refer to the user manual for detailed instructions.
1. Camera Settings
- Video: 2-minute recording duration, sound on
- Motion sensor sensitivity: Medium
2. Camera Placement
Position the trail camera about 1–2 meters (3–6 feet) away from the food or Trap Cage. Make sure the cat’s full body is visible from the side so you can clearly identify their tail shape and coat pattern. Some cameras may overexpose the image at night if placed too close, making the cat appear completely white. Be sure to test the camera distance in advance to avoid overexposure at night.
3. Getting Permission
If placing the camera on someone else’s property or at a feeding spot, always obtain permission beforehand.
Label the camera with the purpose, installation period, and your contact information.
4. Theft Prevention
If setting up in a public area, place the camera somewhere less noticeable―such as tucked into a bush or behind an object.
We also recommend using a lockable cable to secure it to a post or other fixture.
5. Installation Period
Set up the camera at sunset and check the footage the following morning.
Since your Lost Cat may not appear right away, keep the camera in place for at least two nights.
If there are no sightings after two days, move the camera to a different location.
6. If there are stray or community cats in the area
In areas where stray or community cats are present, it’s highly likely that there’s a feeding spot nearby. Stray cats don’t usually stay in one place unless they have access to a steady food source, so their presence often indicates someone is providing food in the area.
Even if the person feeding the cats says, "Your cat hasn’t come here," keep in mind that they may not have noticed. Politely ask for permission to set up a trail camera for at least two days to check whether your cat has visited the spot.
Trail Camera: Cat Approaches Trap Cage
Report your lost cat to the appropriate authorities and follow up with them regularly.
Cats are not typically taken in by the police or animal control simply for being seen outdoors.
However, if a cat is found injured or severely weakened, they may be picked up and placed in protective custody. For this reason, it’s important to file a report early―just in case.
Even if your cat is taken in by the police or animal control, you may not be contacted unless your contact information is clearly written on their collar.
That’s why it’s essential not only to file a report, but also to regularly check intake records and shelter listings to stay informed after submitting your report.
Note: Procedures and agency responsibilities may vary by country or region. Please check with your local authorities for accurate guidance.
1. Police Departments
In most areas, police departments do not have the facilities to house or care for animals. If someone brings a lost cat to the police station, they will often refer them to the local animal control center.
In some regions, the police may keep records of cats that have been brought in. It’s worth checking whether your cat may be listed.
2. Animal Control Centers
If a cat is taken to an animal control center, they will first receive any necessary medical care. Staff will scan for a microchip, and if owner information is registered, they will attempt to make contact.
If the cat is unidentifiable, they will be held and posted as lost for a designated holding period. Be sure to check the center’s lost-and-found listings regularly.
If no one claims the cat during the holding period, the cat may be put up for adoption or transferred to a rescue organization.
3. Public Works Departments (Road Cleaning Services)
Sadly, if a cat is found deceased―such as from being hit by a car―it may be collected and disposed of by the city’s public works department responsible for road maintenance.
In such cases, remains are often cremated within two to three days, and no official record may be kept. It’s important to contact the department promptly if there is a possibility your cat was involved.
4. Veterinary Clinics
Although not government-run, veterinary clinics often receive lost cats that have been rescued due to injury or illness.
There have been cases where a passerby found a cat in poor condition and brought them to a clinic near their home. For this reason, it is strongly recommended that you take your Lost Cat Flyer to all clinics within a 5-kilometer radius and ask if they would be willing to display it in their waiting area.
When you receive a sighting report, go to the location to check the area and safely recover your cat.
Sightings calls often come unexpectedly. To avoid panicking when you receive one, it’s helpful to prepare in advance by writing down the following items in a notebook or memo app you can easily access at any time.
When you receive a sightings call, start by sincerely thanking the caller, then ask for details about the sighting.
1. Ask for details about the sighting―when they saw the cat (and since when they’ve been seeing them), the exact location, what the cat was doing at the time, and which direction they were heading. When asking about the cat’s appearance, do not lead the conversation with questions like "Did they have an ear tip on the right side?" Instead, let the caller describe what they remember in their own words.
2. If they have a photo, ask them to send it via SMS or another messaging method. Also, let them know some key features of your cat, and kindly ask them to take a photo if they see the cat again, making sure to capture the features you described.
3. Ask for the caller’s name, and if possible, request permission to contact them again. Also, ask if they would be willing to take a photo if they see the cat again.
4. Save the caller’s information in your phone contacts with a clear label such as "Sighting Info – Mr. Yamada." This way, if they call again, you’ll immediately recognize who it is.
What You’ll Need: Flashlight, your cat’s favorite treats, Cat Carrier, Lost Cat Flyers, food, trail camera
Sightings are extremely valuable. In most cases, you won’t receive many calls―just a few, and each one may be a key to locating your cat. That’s why you should carefully follow up on every sighting unless it’s clearly a different cat or the location is far beyond the possible range.
1. Go to the Sighting Spot Right Away
Go to the reported location as soon as possible and search the area thoroughly.
If you can, ask the person who called to meet you there and describe the situation in detail―the exact time they saw the cat, what the cat was doing, and which direction they went.
2. Ask Around the Area
If you don’t find your cat right away, hand out Lost Cat Flyers and speak with nearby residents.
Ask if anyone has seen a cat that looks like the one in the flyer, when they started seeing the cat (if they’ve been seeing the cat since before yours went missing, it may be a different one), and whether there are any feeding spots nearby.
If a feeding spot is found, speak with the person who provides food and ask if they’ve seen your cat.
3. Use a Trail Camera to Confirm
If you go to the location but still can’t find your cat, or if there are other cats with similar coat color and pattern, and you’re unsure whether the sighting was actually your cat, use a trail camera.
Identify potential hiding spots and, starting from the area near the sighting location, place strong-smelling food and trail cameras in order to see if your cat is drawn to the scent.
If a feeding spot exists, monitor it as well with a trail camera.
Even if someone feeding the cats says, "Your cat hasn’t been here," keep in mind that they may simply not have noticed.
In such cases, kindly ask for permission to place a trail camera for at least two days to confirm whether your cat has visited the spot.
What You’ll Need: Your cat’s favorite treats, a Cat Carrier
1. When you find your lost cat, first crouch down low and calmly call their name in a steady voice while observing their behavior.
2. If your cat doesn’t appear tense or try to run away when you call their name, stay low and slowly approach while continuing to speak softly. If they come up to sniff your outstretched fingers, you may be able to gently touch and safely pick them up by hand. Offering their favorite treat can also help ease their tension.
3. If you successfully catch them with your bare hands, immediately place them in a Cat Carrier to prevent them from slipping out of your arms and escaping. If you don’t have a carrier, a mesh laundry bag can be used as a substitute.
4. If your cat starts to back away with their back arched as you approach―or sniffs your fingers but still seems wary―remain crouched and wait patiently until they relax. It may take 30 minutes or more, but give them time to feel safe.
5. If your cat doesn’t calm down, step away from the area for now. Trying to force a capture may scare them into fleeing again, which means having to start locating their whereabouts all over again. In such cases, use a Trap Cage for a more reliable capture.
If your cat has hidden in a spot and won’t come out, block off the surrounding area with bricks or other barriers to prevent escape. Then, set up the Trap Cage at the exit.
If you find your cat but they won’t come out of hiding or seem likely to run away when you approach, use a Trap cage to safely and successfully capture your cat.
Here’s how to use a commercially available trip-plate trap (spring-loaded trap) to capture your cat.
Trap cage usage may vary depending on the manufacturer, so please refer to the instruction manual for details.
1. Establishing a Feeding Routine
- Only place the trap cage after you’ve confirmed where your cat is.
If you set it too early, it may catch other cats, making management difficult and possibly leading to neighborhood conflicts.
- Once you’ve located your lost cat, place food at that spot at the same time each day to get them used to coming.
Set up the trap cage only during the time they usually come to eat―this helps reduce the chance of catching other cats.
2. Getting Permission
- If placing the trap on property you don’t own, obtain permission from the landowner.
- If there are outdoor-access cats nearby, ask their owners to keep them inside during trapping hours.
- If there are community cats nearby, ask the caretakers to feed them away from the trap and in large enough amounts so they’re not tempted.
- Label the trap cage with the purpose, installation period, and your contact information.
3. Managing Feeding Spots
Cats won’t go into a trap unless they’re hungry.
If someone nearby is feeding cats, explain your situation and ask them to manage their feeding schedule so your cat doesn’t eat there.
4. Safety Check and Cleaning Before Use
- Make sure there are no sharp edges that could injure your cat. If there are, file them down.
- Check that the sliding gate at the back cannot be pushed upward by the cat. If it can be opened even with light pressure, secure it with cable ties.
- Confirm that stepping on the trip plate causes the door to close immediately.
If the door shuts from slight vibrations (like shaking), adjust the hook to secure it more firmly.
- If the trap smells like other cats, deodorize it thoroughly with spray or rinse with water.
5. Making the Trap Cage More Comfortable
- Cover the trap with a sheet to block the mesh and create a dark, calm space.
Using a sheet that has your cat’s scent can help them feel safer.
Place a pee pad or similar material inside to make it easier to walk on.
- Use your cat’s favorite food as bait. Strong-smelling items like grilled fish can also help.
- During bug season, place the food on a raised dish inside a shallow dish of water to deter slugs and insects.
6. Trap Placement
- Choose a quiet location where people won’t disturb the trap.
Place the trap cage parallel to, but slightly off to the side of a narrow path the cat is likely to use―this is more effective than placing it directly in the middle.
- Even if the food is tempting, cats may be wary of an unfamiliar trap.
Place it near bushes, cars, sheds, or under the deck so they can observe it calmly before approaching.
Cautious cats often watch for a while before deciding it’s safe.
- Place a small amount of food just in front of the trap entrance.
Even if the cat doesn’t enter, if the food disappears, you’ll know an animal came.
Do not place any other food nearby―if your cat satisfies their hunger there, they may not risk entering the trap.
7. Use a Trail Camera to Monitor
If your cat doesn’t get caught in the trap cage, set up a trail camera facing the trap.
This helps determine whether they are approaching but avoiding it, or not coming at all.
8. Trap Monitoring and Safety
- Depending on your cat’s personality and living environment, it’s best to set the trap from evening to early morning when it’s quiet.
- Do not use the trap during hot daytime hours in summer―there’s a serious risk of heatstroke.
- Once the trap is set, leave the area so your cat doesn’t sense your presence.
- If there are signs of human activity around the trap, the cat may avoid it.
Check whether the door is closed by shining a flashlight from a distance.
- If an animal remains trapped too long, they may be injured or exhausted.
Check from a distance every 3 hours. If the door is still open, leave quietly.
- If another animal is accidentally caught, release it immediately while avoiding injury to either party.
Take care not to be scratched on your wrists or arms, as there’s a risk of infection.
If scratched or bitten, rinse the wound thoroughly under running water and seek medical attention.
- If the trapped cat looks similar to yours, take clear photos of any distinguishing features before releasing them.
These photos may help confirm or rule out future sightings reported in response to your Lost Cat Flyers.
9. If You Catch Your Cat
- If you successfully catch your cat, do not open the trap on the spot.
Take them home, close all doors and windows, and only then release them indoors.
- If your cat appears injured or weak, keep them in the trap cage and take them to a veterinary clinic right away.
When you recover your lost cat, take them to a veterinary clinic as soon as possible to ensure they receive any necessary medical care.
1. If You Safely Recover Your Cat at Night
If your cat is injured or severely weakened, take them to a 24-hour emergency animal hospital for immediate treatment.
2. Even If They Seem Fine
Even if your cat appears to be in good condition, have them checked by your regular veterinarian. Ask the vet to check for dehydration, external injuries, damage to teeth or claws, fleas, ticks, parasites, and possible infections.
3. Keep Them Isolated Until Cleared
Until your cat has been fully examined, keep them in a cage or a separate room to prevent potential transmission of infectious diseases to other pets or people.
4. If They Were Bitten in a Fight
If your cat was bitten in a fight, swelling or infection may appear a few days later. Monitor them closely, and if you notice signs of swelling or pus, take them to the vet for treatment.
5. Avoid Stressful Bathing
Unless your cat is extremely dirty, avoid bathing them right away, as it may cause unnecessary stress. Let them groom themselves first. If needed, gently wipe off any dirt using a pet-safe body wipe without harsh chemicals, or a well-wrung warm damp towel.
6. If You Were Bitten or Scratched During Capture
If you were bitten or scratched while capturing your cat, you may be at risk of infection. Immediately rinse the wound thoroughly under running water. If swelling occurs, seek medical treatment right away.
7. How to Calm Your Cat at Home
Even after being safely brought home, some cats may remain unsettled.
- If you become emotional or raise your voice after bringing your cat home, it may cause them to feel anxious. As difficult as it may be, try to stay calm and gently welcome them back.
- Being outdoors can be a stressful experience for your cat, and they may still be overstimulated. If they seem agitated, keep them in a quiet room for a while to help them settle down.
- If you have other cats in the home, they may react aggressively due to unfamiliar outdoor scents on your found cat. Keep them separated for the time being.
- Most cats begin to calm down within a week. Be patient and give them time to adjust at their own pace.
Once your lost cat has safely returned home, please take the time to let everyone who provided sightings or helped with the search know, and thank them for their support.
If you posted Lost Cat Flyers with permission, attach a note that says "Found" and take them down after about 3 days. Many people in your community were likely concerned and hoping for a happy outcome.
Notify any places where you filed a lost report―such as the local police station, animal control center, public works department (road cleaning division), and veterinary clinics―that your cat has been found.
We’re so glad your cat is home safe.
Here’s to many more happy moments with your beloved cat by your side!
If your cat is still missing more than 1 month after they went missing, please switch to the "After 1 Month of Going Missing" search plan.
Even if you manage to find your cat and pick them up with your bare hands, there is a risk they may slip away and escape again on the way home.
This can happen even just 10 meters from your house.
Carrying a cat securely in your arms without them escaping is extremely difficult―even over a short distance.
Once you have caught your cat, place them in a Cat Carrier immediately to prevent another escape.
If you do not have a Cat Carrier, you can use a mesh laundry bag or a similar alternative to safely contain them.
A trail camera is a motion-activated device designed to automatically capture photos and videos of wildlife outdoors. It works both during the day and at night.
When an animal―such as a cat―comes near, the camera detects the movement and records images or video accordingly.
Trail cameras are battery-operated, waterproof, and store the captured footage on an internal memory card.
These cameras are especially useful for checking whether your missing cat is coming to eat the food you’ve left out or for monitoring activity around a Trap Cage.
Because they operate silently and without revealing any human presence, they provide continuous overnight surveillance―making them a highly effective tool in the search for a lost cat.
There are various types of trap cages, but when capturing a lost cat, a trip-plate trap (spring-loaded trap) is most suitable.
This type of trap works by placing cat food at the back to lure the cat inside. When the cat steps on the trip plate, the spring mechanism automatically triggers the door to close.
If the trap is too small, the door may not fully close even after being triggered, which can result in the cat escaping―sometimes with its tail or hind legs caught.
To reduce the risk of escape or injury, choose a trap approximately 76 cm long × 25 cm wide × 25 cm high.
1. Psychology and Behavior of a Cat When They Go Missing
When an indoor cat afraid of strangers escapes outside, they are frightened by the unfamiliar environment and the presence of people. Acting on instinct, they try to find a dark, narrow, and tucked-away space to hide in.
Cats that are fearful of unfamiliar surroundings and people typically do not travel far. They are often found hiding just a few meters from home―in a neighbor’s shed or a crawl space accessible from outside.
Once they find a place where they feel secure, they may stay hidden there for days or even weeks without emerging.
They move with great caution, doing their best not to expose their body. Unlike stray cats, they rarely walk along fences, rooftops, roads, or bridges.
Some cats, confused by the unfamiliar outdoor environment, may initially sit dazed under a car or in a yard. However, they eventually find a safe place to hide and crawl into it.
Cats that are hiding because they are scared of the outside environment are extremely difficult to find even if you search within what you can see from the street. They will not respond to their name being called.
If searching nearby yields no results, you may begin to worry that your cat has gone far away. In reality, however, they are most often just hiding in a location that is difficult to see.
While hiding, cats do not eat, but since they hardly move, they burn very little energy. As a result, they can survive for several days without experiencing severe physical decline.
However, they cannot go without food forever. Eventually, as hunger begins to outweigh fear, they cautiously emerge during quiet hours to look for water or food, then quickly hide again. They often repeat this behavior.
In areas with a large number of stray or community cats, there are often feeding spots where people regularly leave food.
A hungry lost cat may try to approach these feeding spots, but for an indoor cat afraid of strangers, it is difficult to compete with stronger cats.
They may be driven away and forced to search for food elsewhere.
If they are unable to eat enough at a feeding spot, they may begin hunting small animals―such as mice, pigeons, sparrows, lizards, or frogs―to survive.
However, not all cats are skilled hunters. If they cannot obtain food from humans, they may fall into a state of chronic hunger and continue moving in search of a better feeding area.
2. Changes in Behavior Over Time
Immediately after going missing, a cat’s fear is stronger than their hunger. They tend to hide very close to home and remain almost completely still, making them extremely difficult to spot.
After several days to a few weeks, hunger becomes unbearable, and they begin cautiously exploring the surrounding area in search of food and water.
During this time, they observe where and when it is safe to eat, and watch other cats at feeding spots to learn how to access food safely.
However, since they only move around during hours when there are no people, they still tend to go unnoticed.
After a few weeks to about a month, the cat gradually becomes accustomed to their surroundings and gains confidence.
They begin expanding their range little by little in search of better feeding spots, and their activity periods lengthen―making it more likely that someone will spot them.
After more than a month, the cat may have found a place where they can eat regularly and may have settled in that area.
If they start showing up at a particular feeding spot consistently, there is a higher chance that sightings will be reported from around that location.
It is also possible that someone has already taken them in and is caring for them.
